LF Lenses to choose

[Doremus Scudder]

Advocating for "plain vanilla" here: There's a reason why 90mm wide-angle design lenses like Super Angulons, Grandagons and SW lenses have become ubiquitous and "standard." They give the most flexibility and bang for the buck. Plus, you can choose the larger and brighter f/5.6 (f/4.5) versions, which usually have larger image circles, or the more compact and portable f/8 (f/6.8) versions. While these latter usually have less coverage than their larger cousins, the Nikkor SW 90mm f/8 is an exception, having an image circle as large as the faster lenses. The 90mm focal length is a sweet spot between wider lenses with smaller image circles and less capability for movements and the larger and bulkier wide-angle designs in longer focal lengths.

Personally, I don't think I would carry both a 90mm and a 115mm lens in the field. I can get the 115mm shot by simply cropping an image from the 90mm lens a bit.

Similarly, the 135mm (or 150mm) Plasmat-design lenses are standards. I prefer the 135mm focal length, since I can always crop a bit to get the 150mm view.

Since you're just beginning, travel the roads with ruts in them first before striking off cross-country. In other words, get yourself lenses and focal lengths that have become the LF workhorses first. If you find you need other, more esoteric lenses for special applications, then you can get those later, after you've made a good case for needing them.

FWIW, my "extended" lens kit (optimized for portability) is: 75mm f/5.6 Fujinon SW, 90mm Nikkor f/8 SW, 135mm WF Ektar or f/5.6 Plasmat (I'll take the WF Ektar if I anticipate needing the coverage, e.g., for architectural work, otherwise, the Plasmat is smaller and lighter), 203mm Ektar f/7.7 (or 180mm Fujinon A on occasion) and a 300mm f/9 Nikkor M (or 240mm Fujinon A).

Usually, I'll leave off one of the extremes behind. For example, if I'm working in close quarters in canyons or cities, I won't take the longer lenses, but all of the rest, opting for the shorter focal lengths of a pair; 180mm instead of 203mm for example. If I'm in the wide-open spaces, I'll leave the 75mm behind, etc.

You'll notice that the spacing of my core kit is approximately 1.5x between focal lengths (90 - 135 - 200 -300) with a few others thrown in for extremes or alternates. If I had to limit my lenses to four, it would be these.

Best,

Doremus

[Gabe]

What do you mean?

Center neutral density filters are designed to compensate for the cos4 falloff (optical vignetting) which is particularly apparent in wide angle lenses, especially towards the edges of the image circle.

Uneven exposure from cos4 falloff is therefore most noticeable in the frame when extreme camera movements are employed, so a center ND filter can be invaluable in these circumstances, especially when shooting slide film.

[Peter De Smidt]

I usually find optical vignetting to be a positive feature. It means I have less burning down of the edges of a print to do. Note: I only use BW negative film in large format.

[Alan Klein]

Advocating for "plain vanilla" here: There's a reason why 90mm wide-angle design lenses like Super Angulons, Grandagons and SW lenses have become ubiquitous and "standard." They give the most flexibility and bang for the buck. Plus, you can choose the larger and brighter f/5.6 (f/4.5) versions, which usually have larger image circles, or the more compact and portable f/8 (f/6.8) versions. While these latter usually have less coverage than their larger cousins, the Nikkor SW 90mm f/8 is an exception, having an image circle as large as the faster lenses. The 90mm focal length is a sweet spot between wider lenses with smaller image circles and less capability for movements and the larger and bulkier wide-angle designs in longer focal lengths.

Personally, I don't think I would carry both a 90mm and a 115mm lens in the field. I can get the 115mm shot by simply cropping an image from the 90mm lens a bit.

Similarly, the 135mm (or 150mm) Plasmat-design lenses are standards. I prefer the 135mm focal length, since I can always crop a bit to get the 150mm view.

Since you're just beginning, travel the roads with ruts in them first before striking off cross-country. In other words, get yourself lenses and focal lengths that have become the LF workhorses first. If you find you need other, more esoteric lenses for special applications, then you can get those later, after you've made a good case for needing them.

FWIW, my "extended" lens kit (optimized for portability) is: 75mm f/5.6 Fujinon SW, 90mm Nikkor f/8 SW, 135mm WF Ektar or f/5.6 Plasmat (I'll take the WF Ektar if I anticipate needing the coverage, e.g., for architectural work, otherwise, the Plasmat is smaller and lighter), 203mm Ektar f/7.7 (or 180mm Fujinon A on occasion) and a 300mm f/9 Nikkor M (or 240mm Fujinon A).

Usually, I'll leave off one of the extremes behind. For example, if I'm working in close quarters in canyons or cities, I won't take the longer lenses, but all of the rest, opting for the shorter focal lengths of a pair; 180mm instead of 203mm for example. If I'm in the wide-open spaces, I'll leave the 75mm behind, etc.

You'll notice that the spacing of my core kit is approximately 1.5x between focal lengths (90 - 135 - 200 -300) with a few others thrown in for extremes or alternates. If I had to limit my lenses to four, it would be these.

Best,

Doremus

Be careful with the brighter f/4.5 90mm like the Nikkor I have. The contrast, polarizing, etc filters are huge especially if you add a center filter for it. I also have the 75mm f/5.6 Fujinon which is very sweet but not yet have the center filter. I think I use the 75mm more than the 90mm. My other lenses are 150mm and 300mm.

[Havoc]

Just take care when going with a 90/5.6 that it enters the hole in your front standard. My Fuji SWD 90/5.6 only justly mounts on my Wista 45. And it comes less outside the cabinet then the SA 90/8 just because of the weight. I rather take the SWD 75/5.6 along.

[Alan Klein]

Just take care when going with a 90/5.6 that it enters the hole in your front standard. My Fuji SWD 90/5.6 only justly mounts on my Wista 45. And it comes less outside the cabinet then the SA 90/8 just because of the weight. I rather take the SWD 75/5.6 along.

Good point. My 90 f/4.5 just fits and that's because my Chamonix came with a modified bag type bellows that allows it. I don't think regular bellows would be wide enough.

[Professional]

Pro, You're sounding sensible here. My thought after reading various replies in this thread, and especially Peter's (which I recognized as a bit tongue in cheek) was that you need to be careful to avoid a potentially fatal case of "LAD," which is known to afflict LFers. LAD is "lens acquisition disorder."

Sorry for late reply.

I don't care about LAD because it happens to so many people, and i don't regret the symptoms anyway, so i am happy

[Professional]

Advocating for "plain vanilla" here: There's a reason why 90mm wide-angle design lenses like Super Angulons, Grandagons and SW lenses have become ubiquitous and "standard." They give the most flexibility and bang for the buck. Plus, you can choose the larger and brighter f/5.6 (f/4.5) versions, which usually have larger image circles, or the more compact and portable f/8 (f/6.8) versions. While these latter usually have less coverage than their larger cousins, the Nikkor SW 90mm f/8 is an exception, having an image circle as large as the faster lenses. The 90mm focal length is a sweet spot between wider lenses with smaller image circles and less capability for movements and the larger and bulkier wide-angle designs in longer focal lengths.

Personally, I don't think I would carry both a 90mm and a 115mm lens in the field. I can get the 115mm shot by simply cropping an image from the 90mm lens a bit.

Similarly, the 135mm (or 150mm) Plasmat-design lenses are standards. I prefer the 135mm focal length, since I can always crop a bit to get the 150mm view.

Since you're just beginning, travel the roads with ruts in them first before striking off cross-country. In other words, get yourself lenses and focal lengths that have become the LF workhorses first. If you find you need other, more esoteric lenses for special applications, then you can get those later, after you've made a good case for needing them.

FWIW, my "extended" lens kit (optimized for portability) is: 75mm f/5.6 Fujinon SW, 90mm Nikkor f/8 SW, 135mm WF Ektar or f/5.6 Plasmat (I'll take the WF Ektar if I anticipate needing the coverage, e.g., for architectural work, otherwise, the Plasmat is smaller and lighter), 203mm Ektar f/7.7 (or 180mm Fujinon A on occasion) and a 300mm f/9 Nikkor M (or 240mm Fujinon A).

Usually, I'll leave off one of the extremes behind. For example, if I'm working in close quarters in canyons or cities, I won't take the longer lenses, but all of the rest, opting for the shorter focal lengths of a pair; 180mm instead of 203mm for example. If I'm in the wide-open spaces, I'll leave the 75mm behind, etc.

You'll notice that the spacing of my core kit is approximately 1.5x between focal lengths (90 - 135 - 200 -300) with a few others thrown in for extremes or alternates. If I had to limit my lenses to four, it would be these.

Best,

Doremus

WOW, you have so many you used or tested, good job.

[Professional]

Center neutral density filters are designed to compensate for the cos4 falloff (optical vignetting) which is particularly apparent in wide angle lenses, especially towards the edges of the image circle.

Uneven exposure from cos4 falloff is therefore most noticeable in the frame when extreme camera movements are employed, so a center ND filter can be invaluable in these circumstances, especially when shooting slide film.

Ok, this is also another mistake i did when i didn't buy any center ND before when it was available, i wasn't sure it will be very necessary, and i got busy in other things until the time and life changed for me and i stopped, i will see what i can find around

[Professional]

I usually find optical vignetting to be a positive feature. It means I have less burning down of the edges of a print to do. Note: I only use BW negative film in large format.

In some images or sometimes i even add vignetting to the image, i like the effect for some images, so i have to be creative when having a vignetting can be a bonus for the image so i don't think about removing it.