Anyone here shoot with it?
Opinions? Suggestions?
I'm curious to see how this film will handle Sierra granite.
Anyone here shoot with it?
Opinions? Suggestions?
I'm curious to see how this film will handle Sierra granite.
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
JK
I've recently started using it. I have a bunch of it in the darkroom waiting to be souped. I took a little in the summer too. I'll see if can get a scan.
I rate it at about 64 ASA, but nothing tested or official. I've been developing normal to normal +2 in XTOL 1:1 (Legacy version). It builds contrast quickly.
Ortho films I have used will build up contrast quickly... Good to think "spectrally" when using them...
The sky is blue and bright, so that will build the highest density (like the 19th century photos), as well as areas that are illuminated by skylight...
The things that don't build up density quickly are objects that are more towards the red end of the spectrum that don't get so much light...
Look at the color of the rocks, tree bark, ground etc and expect them to stay darker if redder, and other stuff more green/blue might build more density faster, so the choice of ortho might be based on conditions where you normally shoot (and the color environment)...
Testing, testing, testing...
Steve K
Check out mid to late 19th century western landscape photos if you want to see how true orthochromatic emulsions render the scenes. I found this for you to check out:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...ered-time.html
Rick Allen
Argentum Aevum
practicing Pastafarian
Cool photos, thanks!
I'll be developing by inspection under a red safe light like I did with ORT-25 back when it was available, so I'm hoping density won't be an issue.
The subjects I'm contemplating shouldn't have any sky in the scene.
I've used D-76 50/50 with distilled water to soup Ort-25 so that's probably going to be where I'll start with the Ilford.
Thanks for the suggestions.
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
I have used it quite a bit but not recently, and I always liked the results. Have some frozen in the deep freeze.
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
It's pretty similar to FP4+ sans red sensitivity in my experience. I've shot a few sheets in camera here and there (mainly use it for masking and other technical purposes) over the last year - more UV, the more ortho the look. It can look surprisingly 'normal' if it's not super sunny. Will try & dig out a few Hasselblad/ Imacon scans I made. Don't use anything less than a deep red (906 from Ilford) safelight - even a 1A might not be enough. I like it a lot, need to shoot more with it & get times & EI's worked out for day-to-day use.
Orthochromatic film is green sensitive [in addition to blue]
Early films, such as used by Sullivan, etc, were color blind, meaning response to blue light [only]
The response of ortho film may be slightly modified by yellow 'ray screens'
[which brings to mind the Martian tales of Edgar Rice Burroughs and the 'eight Barsoomian ray]
Graduated ray screens were used to tame skies to some degree
The 1904 Kodak catalog mentions orthochromatic sensitivity, in blurb for its new NC [non curling] film.
Blue sensitive film continued for use for a decade or two after- it was cheaper, just as plates were cheaper than the easier to use roll films and pack films.
Now then, I wonder if there is an available lith film which is really color blind, so that red subjects are rendered black.
[without a red filter factor of 27 stops]
I'm thinking a Pyro developer could tame the contrast.
Timothy O'Sullivan's wet plates were blue-sensitive, i.e., monochromatic. Orthochromatic film is sensitive to blue and green and will render green objects (e.g., foliage) a lot lighter than a blue-sensitive emulsion will. Shadows are gratifyingly open; blue skies will be quite light.
Best,
Doremus
That's good to know about greens appearing lighter, as foliage will definitely be in some of the shots. Thanks!
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
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