Following .
Yes, thanks Ari!
I see a simple Bail Back lever like my Seneca
Are the 2 biggest parts bent aluminum or steel?
Is anything welded together?
How easy is folding?
Do the bellows rub anywhere when folding or closed?
What kind of focus gearing?
Are the bellows quick release or permanently glued
It is obvious it has only rear focus?
I imagine Bruce would have used McMaster Carr bits as he lived an hour away, as I once did
Tin Can
i once had a roto punch... the turret had cutters from 1/16 to 2" punches. i could punch out those holes in minutes.
It folds relatively easily, but easy for some is not for others.
focus gearing is a simple metal gear, I do not know the tooth count, but it is relatively fine.
I'm pretty sure that the rear bellows is quick release based on an issue on time. I've never paid attention though.
Rough focus is on the front through moving the standard. Fine focus is geared on the rear.
I prefer focusing with the rear standard. That's an advantage to this system over the front lead-screw designs. Personally, I'd skip rear swing, as I rarely use it.
For the bottom shell, I'd probably design a structure, instead of just drilling holes, and have a CNC machine do it. I have one at my library that I can use, but it's limited to a piece about 10x12 inches.
I have most of the parts to replace elements on my Intrepid, but the Pandemic, and my greatly increased teaching load, put the brakes on that. Maybe this summer! The plan was to use carbon fiber sheets sandwiched over expanded PVC (or balsa or spruce....).
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
An anecdote about the rear swing: mine, once locked together, focuses with either knob without swinging the back one way or another. I can't think of a time I've used rear swing, so I haven't thought much about it, but when I first received the camera I was definitely confused until I got both knobs locked together at the proper distance. I can see how someone would be annoyed at the design if they used rear swing often.
It's way harder to describe that than it is to physically do, much like the rest of the camera's controls.
I'm thinking about use this as the inner layer for the flat structural parts: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Honey...Inch,3545.html
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
In the late 90's, I saw a Kodak Master 8x10 camera at a swap meet to which this was done. Very creative and thorough. The camera was quite light-weight. I could have had the camera and both the 4x5 and 5x7 reduction backs for $5C, and I passed it up. (And, an 8x10 Fresnel lens.)
Dang, Dang, Dang, Dang . . . Dang, . . .
No front or rear quick release for the bellows, permanently glued. Would be a nice feature, though, and the stiff standard bellows could definitely be improved upon.
Also, maybe a small point but the camera uses what I think are pop(?) rivets securing the metal focusing rails to the main camera bed. One of my rails is a bit loose and moves slightly from side-to-side (worn rivets, I presume). Annoying, but fortunately it hasn't had any real impact on focusing yet but I assume it will gradually get worse with further wear. I just looked up how to replace pop (or blind) rivets and doesn't look to be that difficult (famous last words!) but something to keep in mind when it comes to potential maintenance issues that could be documented. Maybe there's a better system but it looks pretty functional. There are also a pair of focusing rails attached in the same way that are part of the removable extension bed but these in general receive less use.
I would be curious if anyone has had to replace any of their rivets?
Bookmarks