My description is not the clearest but hopefully the attached photo gives you a better idea.
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My description is not the clearest but hopefully the attached photo gives you a better idea.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by l2oBiN; 7-Dec-2018 at 13:56.
That is why I use a reverse grad nd. That way only the horizon and sky are darkened, with the horizon receiving the most darkening.
Steve: You shouldn't have to be playing with individual RGB colors to get the colors right. Something else is wrong. The ground appears under exposed.. But you may be stuck with that if you exposed correctly for the sky. You can't recover what's not there in the first place. Does the slide look normal when viewed on a light table or equivalent? How are you scanning it? Scan it "flat" without any adjustments at all during the scan and then post it here.
Flickr Home Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/albums
This may just be one of those situations where Velvia 50 isn’t the best choice. Sometimes matching choice of film to the subject is more prudent.
The image is scanned as a linear tif raw file with no adjustments at scanning whatsoever. Part of the issue is the sky was soooo red, it thru a red tint onto everything. The ground is not underexposed on the slide, it is dark as intended, but not underexposed. The issue is really with trying to take an analogue image and digitize it. That can work well most of the time, but sometimes, you just can't get there from here.
I have also found that every slide I scan that when I scan it as a linear raw tif (as flat and unadulterated as you can get for a scan) they all have a color cast of sorts. Mostly too much blue, but sometimes you get this weird one. Like I said, that sky was soooo red and bright that you get the red color on everything. That is the cast I am talking about. Our eyes filter it out when we see the scene, but the film picks it up. While subtle on the film (we may not perceive it) when it is scanned it pops out ugly as can be. So that requires some adjustment.
With Vuescan and the Epson, I can remove that prior to scan by adjusting the color gain a bit. If I don't do it there, I will do it in PS, but it is easier to start with a file as correct as it can be prior to PS.
If I post the linear raw tif, you won't be able to see any foreground, maybe 5%, but that is because th gamma is 1. Converting it to gamma 2.2 does not yield satisfactory results so I use Colorperfect to make the initial post-processing adjustments and then use PS for the rest. This again is just the working file, far from completion, but I wanted to show what I am working with. I may very well just decide to toss this image unless a small miracle comes along.
I will post up a jpg of the file just after scan tonight. I would put tiff up but it is just south of 4gb. I can put file on dropbox if anyone wants to screw around with it.
When using grad nds, be careful as well. If they leak IR and your film is somewhat sensitive it can cause washed out blacks. You can also get a greenish tint or colorshift if the grad nd is not of high quality.
It’s actually two standard grads. By varying the amount you cross them you can vary the reverse grad effect. In the scenario you are planning to photograph you could use your reverse grad as you normally would and then a weaker standard grad which you invert and position so the transition areas cross. That might be enough to give you the extra density around the sun without buying new filters. If you use say a .6 grad inverted you’ll need to add two stops to your base exposure for the foreground. Grab a couple of your filters and try it out by eye.
Lee filters used to have an article on this technique on their website but it seems to have disappeared, perhaps because they are making reverse grads.
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