Seneca Autic Dustproof shutter...and lens.

[Stephanie Brim]

Okay, so this is stupid. Or, well, was stupid. Maybe still is. Don't know.



The 'bay strikes again.

The shutter works well, though I don't know how accurate it is. It appears not to be slow at 1 second, so that's a good sign anyway. 1/100 may be a titch slow. Either way, it's a shutter on a very old lens that actually works. I'm not going to start complaining.

The only bad thing:



It seems to be on the OUTSIDE, not the inside. This is good. However, I don't know how best to clean it. I'm thinking vinegar and maybe a soft cloth after getting what I can with a cotton swab.

The only things I know about it: It's a triple convertible, the focal lengths are 8"/14"/18", and the f/stop range is the U.S. standard (so I may have a new f/scale made because, well, I don't want to calculate all that in my head every single bloody time I take a photograph).

Either way, I'm kind of excited about this. I don't know how far I can focus the 18" length with the Burke & James, but I'm sure wanting to find out.

[Stephanie Brim]

Okay. The good news: I was right. It wasn't fungus. Just dust, and that's gone now. The lens has wear to the glass that you would expect from one that actually was used, but it is not in ugly condition.

Overall, I'm tickled pink. 14" focal length (at f/16, but eh), here I come!

[Steven Tribe]

Your new lens was made by Wollensak and is the convertible version ( 14 and 18") for 5x7". It was called a rapid symmetrical and you can find it in the early Wollensak catalogues at cameraeccentric. The cells are rapid rectilinear type - just two balsammed fint and crown lenses. Used on the long focus cycle cameras of the period (like Seneca!).
Fungus hates RR glass.

[Jim Jones]

A chart to convert from the old U.S. stop system to F/stops can be downloaded to save the expense and bother of replacing the present scale. You can also scan the present scale, in an image editor change the numbers to f/stops, and print out an overlay.

[Stephanie Brim]

A chart to convert from the old U.S. stop system to F/stops can be downloaded to save the expense and bother of replacing the present scale. You can also scan the present scale, in an image editor change the numbers to f/stops, and print out an overlay.

Oooh, that second idea is a really good one. I'll do that as soon as I take it off the camera tomorrow.

[C. D. Keth]

A chart to convert from the old U.S. stop system to F/stops can be downloaded to save the expense and bother of replacing the present scale. You can also scan the present scale, in an image editor change the numbers to f/stops, and print out an overlay.

You can also just remember that f16 is the same stop in both systems. Then the rest of the key falls right into place.

[Stephanie Brim]

Figured I should put this here, too. The 8" configuration, wide open (f/8), 4x5 EDU Ultra 100.

Even with the flaws of the image (which are many, damn it), I LOVE how this looks. I'm going to have lots of fun playing with this.

ETA: I'm thinking of seeing what other kind of shutter it can fit in, though, because it was made for an air bulb and I don't have one. Heh. Someone fashioned a way to use a regular shutter release cable, but it doesn't work that well in practice.

ETA: Threads are about 31mm, so I'm guessing not. Bah. Looks like I need an air bulb.

[premortho]

My goodness, you have a working Autic Dustproof, and you want to chnage it out? Well, if nothing else, a primer bulb and skinny hose for older outboard motors works. Also the hose and bulb from a blood pressure tester. Or, just get a new one with hose from Packard Shutter.

[Jon Shiu]

The cells will probably fit in a standard Wollensak Betax No. 2 shutter, but some Betaxes are odd sized so double check.

Jon

[Stephanie Brim]

I think I'm just going to use this shutter until I can't anymore. I thought I'd have a Packard by now, too, since I was looking around for one when I ended up bidding on this thing, but...yeah. So I figured I'd have at least one air bulb by now.

And, yeah, shutter is working. Or, well, it's kind of working. 1 second is fast, 1/2 through 1/25 seem about right, and I'm going to go with 1/50 and 1/100 being at least half a stop slower, too, until I can get it checked and have someone tell me, anyway. It isn't like I'm going to be using faster than about 1/25 in my normal shooting, anyway.

It's going to be interesting, at least. I'm going to do some basic still lifes with the lens at both the 8" and 14" focal lengths and see how I get on. I have some miniature tanks and some small action figures that I plan to play around with doing scenes. Reason to play with the kids' toys: secured.