C-41 4x5s in a 3010 hand-rolled, 3' drum preheat, two 30" presoaks. Negs came out perfect. Do presoak.
C-41 4x5s in a 3010 hand-rolled, 3' drum preheat, two 30" presoaks. Negs came out perfect. Do presoak.
I gotta say, i have yet to have seen a C-41 manual that calls for a pre soak... (tetenal, champion, fuji...)
Maybe this is a thing of small volume rollei style kits? do they actually say to pre soak color negatives?
I had a friend (well she wasent really a friend, more like an acquaintance), who used to get very magenta velvia sheet film when running in our communal ATL3 machine (which used to run 18 hours a day X6 days with near perfect results in c-41 and e-6), so she heard about pre soaking films, and how when you pour out the presoak water it has a color to it, and when she did that with the velvia the water came out pinkish. when i asked her what she was doing she said "im taking some of that magenta out of my films...".
but i guess you should do whatever works for you, this is all a has been. the films are old, the machines are old, the chemicals are wrong all around, and every person makes up the rules of physics as they go along.
If any thing, moisture, let alone full on water in the tank before the developer hits it can cause steraking, where the emulsion has expanded more and will absorb the developer slower.
As for your samples, the white\foggy stuff might very well be water sediment from uneven drying, however, what looks like a drip of higher density on the image on the left is moisture\liquid running on the film, and sitting there for a few seconds before the film was hit with the developer.
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