What developer do you use? Why?

[ki6mf]

D 76 with HP5 1 part developer to 2 parts Water. Standard development time is 14 minutes for Normal Development. For N+ or N-1, -2,-3 its 2 minutes less/more time per period. For two part developer I dilute D 76 1:5 with 2 minutes agitation and 15 minutes development time this avoids the 2nd water bath. My ISO is 300 on my Pentax V and 200 on my Sekonic DR 758 DR. Grain is not a problem! All chemistry is at 68 degrees.

Why... It works and I would rather spend time taking pictures than experimenting with new chemistry

[BetterSense]

I use diafine a lot for TriX and Neopan 400 roll films for the speed boost without the "pushed" look. I don't expect to get perfect negatives from roll film and it's pretty much idiot proof, fast, doesn't require temperature control and is very cheap.

When I want finer grain or the ability to control development, as well as a more conventional tonal scale, I use a conventional developer which right now is D23. I used to use D76 but D23 is easy to mix up, works very well, and is really cheap when replenished. I get 20-30 rolls out of a liter. It's very easy to mix up and I never run out.

I'm really looking at trying Rodinal now, though. I'm a sucker for a sharp look and that back-to-back test above, along with Rodinal's reputation for sharpness, are luring me. Where can you buy it?

[Mark Barendt]

xtol

Easy to mix.

Easy to replenish.

Great results.

If I were to use anything different as my main it would be HC-110 or Ilfords equivalent.

[Jehu]

Rodinal source:
http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,12222.html

[Brian Ellis]

D76 1-1. It's an excellent general purpose developer, it's been around for about 100 years IIRC, the longest any film developer has been on the market so I've been told. It also has a good shelf life in concentrated form. Mixing isn't a big deal, I mix a gallon at a time and then store it in a bunch of small bottles that are kept full. I've read a couple articles that made a fairly convincing argument for using it undiluted. But my tests were all done diluting it 1-1 and I didn't feel like re-doing all my tests. If I were starting out from scratch though I'd use it undiluted.

[Eric Woodbury]

I used PMK with HP5+ for 20+ years. It keeps forever and I worked out a process to use it in a JOBO. But I got tired of that and went looking for something else. I like the keeps-forever property and starting with a liquid. I'm switching over to using tubes. I did some testing with Jay's 510 Pyro, but it seemed to lack shadow detail at speed. I found some with some modifications to the developer that I can get speed and shadow detail. Also, I get a bit more separation than PMK. It is still a formula in progress, but I'm encouraged.

[MenacingTourist]

I use Rollo Pyro in jobo expert drums for my sheet and roll film.
Per Volquartz was kind enough to give me a lot of guidance when I was just starting out and I haven't altered a thing in over 5 years.

I shoot mostly Efke 25 and print on Ilford paper. I have a box of Lodima that I'm eager to dig into as well.

The more I read Anchell's Darkroom Cookbook the more I'm interested in mixing my own (of everything) but it will still be some version of what I'm using now.

Have fun,

Alan.

[Gregg Cook]

for what and for why? Thats the nature of it.

[Keith Tapscott.]

D-76 diluted 1+1 for small-tank processing of 135-36, 120 film-rolls and rotation processing of 8x10 film-sheets.
For inversion agitation development of 4x5 film-sheets in a Jobo 2521 tank with a 2509N reel, I have ordered some Champion Promicrol which I will use at a dilution of 1+14 for reasons of economy.

[Gary L. Quay]

Although a powder, XTOL mixes more easily than ID-11/D76.

Below is a link to a Kodak chart that lists developer charecteristics:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...?pq-path=14053

I just used Xtol for the first time, and I think the recommendation is a good one. It did mix easy, and I really liked the results.