How would I go about this? Ive never even thought about doing this and then realized that I have a cibachrome tube. I don't have a roller thingy so will I have to constantly roll it?
Thanks
Dave
How would I go about this? Ive never even thought about doing this and then realized that I have a cibachrome tube. I don't have a roller thingy so will I have to constantly roll it?
Thanks
Dave
Waldo,
Get a Unicolor, Beseler or Omega motorized base off ebay---they go for around $10-$15. Check out Graywolf Phillip's article on the LF Homepage by clicking on the blue banner at the top of this page. He soups four 4x5s in a Unicolor drum but you'll get an idea of how this works.
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
Yeah, but if you want a cheap alternative to tubes, you can go to any welding supply store and buy the tubes they use to store the welding leads. They probably wont be light tight and you will have to paint them black to make them so, but it works pretty well, it is what I have in reserve in case my Jobo craps out.
Drum scanning 8X10 film will cost between $100 and $200 per file, if you can find someone to do it.
You'll also end up with a 500-1000 MB file, which could be problematic to work with.
You might see a difference in prints bigger than maybe 20X24". But, then again you'd have to shoot with an 8X10 camera. Have you ever done this? It's not something to be undertaken lightly.
Figure in as well $5 - $20 per frame in film and processing costs (B&W or colour), the cost of film holders (you'll need more than a few for a day's shooting), and one has to ask – why bother?
If it's something you're already doing, and you understand the issues, then fine. But if not, the image quality advantages have to be weighed against the costs and practical issues.
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business card printing
I was told that as long as I put the film in the tube and do a constant roll that I should be able to do just fine with the tube that I have.
I used to have a cibachrome tube, trust me when I tell you that the developer will not reach the antihaliton layer in the back of the film where it is in contact with the drum.
Give it a shot, it might work for you, it never worked for me and got a few ruined negatives before I saw the light...
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