You can't just stop there, it looks facinating, do tell more!
You can't just stop there, it looks facinating, do tell more!
Okay, okay... Since you asked!
I was able to source this from the deep, dark wilds of the Far East. Many, many hours were spent in consultation with our Brothers in China to find a camera manufacturer i) able and ii) trustworthy to do the following:
- Send money to (About US$1000) without the security of PayPal; and
- Send my current Gaesori/DaYi film back to
That being done, I did manage to build a very good relationship with them, to the point whereby I am trying to decide whether I will act as their "Western" Agent.
As I mentioned, I have only had this camera for about a week. So far, the Sea Trials hgave shown that it is a bloody great camera! I can ask them if they can make another camera. The main issue will be sourcing another 6x17 back that makes this a reasonable option to buy. Whilst many people have existing 4x5 cameras that can accept a 6x17 back, I do not know if there is enough demand for a US$1400-$1600 camera.
Mind you, being able to pack a complete camera with 3-4 lenses, a meter, film and accessories into a medium sized pack makes this an awesome travel camera!
Lachlan.
The fotoman 6X17 retails at $1700, yours offers movements and is still smaller than a 4X5 isn't it? There are quite a few dedicated 6X17 cameras (no doubt you would offer this with all the DaYi masks for smaller frame sizes) so another with full movements sold as a 645-6x17 pano camera wouldn't be that hard would it? I love the idea of the flip up GG!
How easy is it for vertical? I seem to have fallen in love with the 6X12 aspect ratio in vertical! Gaeorsi have a 6X12 zoom viewfinder (47-150) for $100, I've emailed them about it, we'll see what happens!
It is impossible to beat the laws of optics, although they can sometimes be utilized to one's advantage.
I would think that the answer to this particular problem lies in the darkroom.
Make several exposures at varying focus points, and combine them into a single print with everything apparently sharp.
It won't be easy, but if you wanted easy you wouldn't be shooting LF. (Easy would be do it digitally in segments, and recombime them in PS.)
Wilhelm (Sarasota)
Thanks, Jorge.
You know what they say about imitation and flattery!
Mind you, even with Linhof v Gaesori/DaYi etc, I have always thought that it's more about the glass that you put in front of the film, rather than the metal you encase it in, that counts.
And having all of those movements (albeit on a film size that some here feel is too small for this format) makes me feel somewhat less inferior in this forum
Ben- one thing you mentioned earlier on in the thread but not touched on since was the Kodak 400CN film. I wouldn't recommend it for gaining extra speed, as it is best shot at a lower film speed. When shooting it in 35mm, I usually rated it at 100, sometimes 200, with no development compensation. The 100 rating gives you a very dense, meaty negative, but with good contrast and super-tight grain. 400 yields a somewhat flat negative. If you have some to try, burn a roll or so and see what works for you.
Isn't flatter better for scanning, equivelent of exposing for shadows and developing at N-1?
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