Getting best results from fomapan 100- some questions

[SimonMaddock]

I have just started using this film as it is pretty much the only thing I can find in Half Plate size, the cost is an added bonus for sure. I have had a nightmare trying to get sheets to come out “thin” enough to salt print. They were either over exposed or over developed( a bit rusty and what experience i did have was mainly E6 some 12yrs ago!). I was doing long exposures so wondered if the reciprocity data I was using was out, which i tink is the case. I shot some sheets in the local cathedral today and they seem to have come out ok with just +1 stop for a 15sec exposure/30secs. RO9/1-50/8min/20deg@100iso. Question though, as has been mentioned already, the anti halation on the film is a pretty strong green which often leaves a faint magenta stain on the back of the film. Also the back doesn’t seem to clear, which contributes to the prints coming out very light with almost no shadow/mid detail despite the negs looking ok to the naked eye!? Just wondering if there is something I am missing?
Pre soak/dvelop/rinse/fix/wash.Attachment 259828Attachment 259829
Any advice would be gratefully received.

try putting them in fresh fixer

[notorius]

I have just started using this film as it is pretty much the only thing I can find in Half Plate size, the cost is an added bonus for sure. I have had a nightmare trying to get sheets to come out “thin” enough to salt print. They were either over exposed or over developed( a bit rusty and what experience i did have was mainly E6 some 12yrs ago!). I was doing long exposures so wondered if the reciprocity data I was using was out, which i tink is the case. I shot some sheets in the local cathedral today and they seem to have come out ok with just +1 stop for a 15sec exposure/30secs. RO9/1-50/8min/20deg@100iso. Question though, as has been mentioned already, the anti halation on the film is a pretty strong green which often leaves a faint magenta stain on the back of the film. Also the back doesn’t seem to clear, which contributes to the prints coming out very light with almost no shadow/mid detail despite the negs looking ok to the naked eye!? Just wondering if there is something I am missing?
Pre soak/dvelop/rinse/fix/wash.Attachment 259828Attachment 259829
Any advice would be gratefully received.

You should get pretty transparent (with common base fog) film when properly fixed and washed. I use 2 bath stock developer with no presoak and everything is just fine. Both baths get more and more green tint after use but the film is clear after fix and wash. Your example seems to be not fixed enough, almost like not fixed at all.

[Vaughan]

Use good fresh strong rapid fix. Not eco fix, not hardening fix. I use Ilford Rapid Fixer 1+4.

Perform a clearing test, fix for double the time. Perform another clearing test every week or two and change the fix when the clearing time of the used fix becomes double that of the fresh fix.

Yes, everything becomes green. Learn to live with it.

[Theorkneyeye]

Thanks. The fixer I am using has only had about 6, maybe 8 sheets of use so not sure if there is something wrong/contaminated?!
I am waiting on a delivery that includes new fixer so I shall put that to use when it arrives. Thanks again, I shall let you know how it goes.

[Vaughan]

Thanks. The fixer I am using has only had about 6, maybe 8 sheets of use so not sure if there is something wrong/contaminated?!
I am waiting on a delivery that includes new fixer so I shall put that to use when it arrives. Thanks again, I shall let you know how it goes.

Do a clearing test.

[Theorkneyeye]

Thanks. The fixer I am using has only had about 6, maybe 8 sheets of use so not sure if there is something wrong/contaminated?!
I am waiting on a delivery that includes new fixer so I shall put that to use when it arrives. Thanks again, I shall let you know how it goes.

[notorius]

This thread looks little bit like a broken record now. No offense.
Doing fixer test is more than recommended to reveal the source of problem. Without that you will never know what's wrong. I do it from time to time to test if the fixer is still strong enough. It is an easy and quick procedure. You only need a piece of exposed film.

[Vaughan]

This thread looks little bit like a broken record now. No offense.
Doing fixer test is more than recommended to reveal the source of problem... You only need a piece of exposed film.

It can be unexposed as well. Just not developed.

[notorius]

It can be unexposed as well. Just not developed.

Correct.

[Theorkneyeye]

Sorted thanks, new fixes turned up yesterday, looks a lot better. Apologies for the broken record, but of course you’re not obliged to read or comment if it’s repetitive. It’s worth bearing in mind that when someone is here looking for advice as a bit of a newbie etc, things are only obvious to those that already know��*♂️
No offense.