Spot metering reversal/E6 films (Velvia, Provia, etc) films for twilight cityscapes

[Drew Wiley]

Evening light which contains a mix of various kinds of artificial light can be challenging; and longer exposures potentially introduce reciprocity failure factors. All I can say is, experiment with a 35mm roll first under analogous conditions. Zone System talk is of little value in color photography, especially under these circumstances. I just so much easier to just go do it, and then recalibrate from there in relation to large format work. Just remember that smaller working apertures lead to longer exposures, so factor that into your tests to begin with.

Since Velvia has so little latitude, I probably wouldn't shoot that unless you're already quite confident with it. But it can work wonders in softer light.

[spotless_camera]

You spend too much time believing internet twaddle. The only thing you are doing here is showing your ignorance. Your questions have been answered here by people who have far more experience and success than you. Its time for you to stop trolling.

If you've reached the limits of your skills and expertise in this discussion, it's time for you to stop commenting rather than resorting to insults and excrement-flinging.

[spotless_camera]

Evening light which contains a mix of various kinds of artificial light can be challenging; and longer exposures potentially introduce reciprocity failure factors. All I can say is, experiment with a 35mm roll first under analogous conditions. Zone System talk is of little value in color photography, especially under these circumstances. I just so much easier to just go do it, and then recalibrate from there in relation to large format work. Just remember that smaller working apertures lead to longer exposures, so factor that into your tests to begin with.

Since Velvia has so little latitude, I probably wouldn't shoot that unless you're already quite confident with it. But it can work wonders in softer light.

All the challenges you describe are very real, and indeed are many of the reasons I started this thread. If Velvia wasn't so unforgiving then I wouldn't be so focused on accuracy and precision in metering!

[spotless_camera]

In case anyone is actually using DSLRs for metering, DXOMark publishes lens transmission tests. For example the Canon 24-70/2.8 has a transmission (T-stop) rating of 3.5 wide open:
https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Canon...OS-5DS-R__1009

So if you are metering with a 24-70/2.8, add 2/3 stop to what the camera meter tells you (in addition to any sensor ISO correction factor).

[bdkphoto]

In case anyone is actually using DSLRs for metering, DXOMark publishes lens transmission tests. For example the Canon 24-70/2.8 has a transmission (T-stop) rating of 3.5 wide open:
https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Canon...OS-5DS-R__1009

So if you are metering with a 24-70/2.8, add 2/3 stop to what the camera meter tells you (in addition to any sensor ISO correction factor).

There is a very simple reason this is incorrect - I'm sure with a little thought you can figure it out.

[spotless_camera]

There is a very simple reason this is incorrect - I'm sure with a little thought you can figure it out.

Ah, sorry, my error -- that should be "reduce" and not "add" 2/3 stop. The exposure reading given by the camera is 2/3 stop too high due to losses in the lens.

This is why juggling a dozen correction factors in the field is a bad idea!

[darr]

Honestly, if I had thought about metering the way Mr. Spotless does, I’d have turned around, hugged my light meter goodbye, and taken up knitting instead.

[bdkphoto]

Ah, sorry, my error -- that should be "reduce" and not "add" 2/3 stop. The exposure reading given by the camera is 2/3 stop too high due to losses in the lens.

This is why juggling a dozen correction factors in the field is a bad idea!

Still wrong

[phdgent]

Evening light which contains a mix of various kinds of artificial light can be challenging; and longer exposures potentially introduce reciprocity failure factors. All I can say is, experiment with a 35mm roll first under analogous conditions. Zone System talk is of little value in color photography, especially under these circumstances. I just so much easier to just go do it, and then recalibrate from there in relation to large format work. Just remember that smaller working apertures lead to longer exposures, so factor that into your tests to begin with.

Since Velvia has so little latitude, I probably wouldn't shoot that unless you're already quite confident with it. But it can work wonders in softer light.

Power plant on Fujichrome Provia 100 4"x5", just a UV filter (what else?) on the Symmar-S 150mm and "a mix of various of artificial light...".

[spotless_camera]

Power plant on Fujichrome Provia 100 4"x5", just a UV filter (what else?) on the Symmar-S 150mm and "a mix of various of artificial light...".

Not bad. How did you meter it?