SEI Exposure Photometer

[Peter Lovett]

I have a feeling this is going to be a long-shot but does anyone here have any experience in using one of these beasts?

I have found some explanations on their use but am totally confounded regarding the last part of reading [U]which[U] appropriate scale? It is not helped by the fact that the scales are printed in a font so small that a magnifying glass is almost required.

The instructions I have found state, "Use the appropriate scale in relation to the f number scale taking care to select the exposure time scale of the same colour as the index mark." That mean for bright areas use blue index mark, normal use white and dark use red.

I will admit that at my age I can be easily confused but this one has me beat.

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

[John Layton]

This won't be helpful I don't think (pardon the double negative)...but I have one of these meters also which I'd found in a flea market (along with its case) for something like five dollars. But it does not work.

This might be somewhat helpful but a long shot...there used to be this guy - Huw Finney I think...who modified these meters with an LED light for the "extinction" patch - plus a much easier to use exposure scale, much simpler and more in tune with what most of us are familiar with these days.

Is there a chance that Huw Finney is still around doing this modification? If so...I'd absolutely love it! The idea of placing a light-extinction patch over, say...a very narrow and distant tree branch against a bright sky - thus being able to evaluate the relatively extremely small area of that branch in a way that no spot meter ever could...would be completely amazing - at least if I've actually managed to correctly wrap my brain around this concept.

But if I'm wrong about being so hopeful...about Mr. Finney still being available for this modification and/or about this meter potentially solving my "narrow tree branch against a bright sky" issues - then please speak up so I can disabuse myself of this fantasy!

[Alan9940]

Over the years, I bought two of these meters at different times and had to return both because neither could be "calibrated." This involves turning a wheel on the base while watching a needle gauge on top which is supposed to reach some mark, IIRC. My understanding is that if this "calibration" cannot be done, then the meter will not be accurate. I don't know the truth of this because, as you say, there isn't much info around about these meters.

Another potential issue I noticed when playing around with the ones I had my hands on was that it was very difficult (for me, anyway) to hold the patch steady on whatever I was trying to measure. Like my binoculars. I guess my old hands and arms aren't steady enough these days!

If you find a working meter or can get one modified as John suggests above (I vaguely remember this guy, too) and you use the Zone System with B&W film, I have a PDF that Fred Picker wrote many years ago called "Taming the S.E.I.", if you're interested.

[Mark Sampson]

"photography made difficult".

[Alan9940]

"photography made difficult".

Yes, somewhat. I was interested in one of these meters because I've always found that even a 1 degree spot meter (which aren't truly one degree) cannot accurately measure many cloud formations. I like to keep the tonal values of white clouds boarding on the edge of the curve and, in my experience, a 1 degree spot just doesn't allow me to find and/or analyze the brightest area. The 1/2 degree measurement of the SEI made this type of measurement much more accurate; if one could hold it steady enough, of course.

One could certainly argue that I could manipulate the development of the negative to control these areas, but I've always found that minus development causes more problems than it's worth--slight falloff in deep shadow areas, muddy mid-tones, etc. I'm sure there are plenty of photographers would argue that I've sniffed the fixer tray a little too long, but it's how I've worked for over 40 years now.

[Peter Lovett]

Over the years, I bought two of these meters at different times and had to return both because neither could be "calibrated." This involves turning a wheel on the base while watching a needle gauge on top which is supposed to reach some mark, IIRC. My understanding is that if this "calibration" cannot be done, then the meter will not be accurate. I don't know the truth of this because, as you say, there isn't much info around about these meters.

Another potential issue I noticed when playing around with the ones I had my hands on was that it was very difficult (for me, anyway) to hold the patch steady on whatever I was trying to measure. Like my binoculars. I guess my old hands and arms aren't steady enough these days!

If you find a working meter or can get one modified as John suggests above (I vaguely remember this guy, too) and you use the Zone System with B&W film, I have a PDF that Fred Picker wrote many years ago called "Taming the S.E.I.", if you're interested.

Alan, I would most certainly be interested in the PDF. I am also having problems with the "calibration", sometimes it works but mostly it doesn't but I am not quite willing to give up just yet. Something in my makeup makes me want to try the most difficult route to something.

[Alan9940]

Alan, I would most certainly be interested in the PDF. I am also having problems with the "calibration", sometimes it works but mostly it doesn't but I am not quite willing to give up just yet. Something in my makeup makes me want to try the most difficult route to something.

PM me your email address...I found a few other SEI related things you might be interested in, too.

[BrianShaw]

http://www.jackandbeans.com/sei_picker.pdf

[ic-racer]

I'm looking for a broken one.

[Brian Berry]

I have an SEI which I used happily for a few months and then dropped onto a rock surface. I have no plans to revive it. When I was in my twenties I used one for two years when I was a university biological photographer -- it was great for all those 1:1 and 3:1 shots, but I just don't do that stuff anymore. In the one I dropped the optics are still good but the little light doesn't come on. What do you hope to do with it?