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Wash water temp is nowhere near as crucial as development temp. You don't want it warm enough to weaken or frill the paper emulsion, nor cool enough to not work efficiently. I wouldn't go above 75F, or below 65F.
And yeah, people in the country can seemingly get away with certain things. ... Like putting a well 15 feet away downslope from the outhouse. ... Or more commonly on subdivided plots, having a well right across the fence from a neighbor's septic field. Seen it all. My favorite was an old marginally literate classmate who decided to double his income by turning his septic service truck into a dual-use residential water hauling truck. The health department came down hard on him when a local mini-epidemic broke out. Dumping chemicals in streams doesn't work so well either if Fish & Game finds out; that's about the only thing that efficiently shuts down illegal pot grows anymore.
Ilford (Harman) themselves put out their Ilford FP4+ technical paper for processing that film. Their other films have a similar technical paper.
In that paper on page 4 of 6, they mention various processing temperatures, dependent upon the machinery being used, those temperatures range from 24ºC through to 26ºC with developing times dropping as the temperature rises. I know from a past life that we ran FP4 and later on FP4+ at 30ºC through a roller transport machine without a problem.
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/f...9/product/688/
As for B&W paper developer temperature, for around the last 15 or so years I have been processing Ilford and Kentmere RC B&W paper in my Durst Printo roller transport paper processor around the 30ºC mark with nary an issue. In fact Ilford suggest a temperature range for their B&W papers between 20ºC to 30ºC with times given for up to 40ºC processing temperatures. Essentially the higher the temperature the quicker the developing time.
My Durst Printo which was designed for RA4 colour paper processing, which I used it for, in my first 15-20 years of ownership, has a 45 second developing bath, so I needed to up the temperature to get full B&W paper development. 30ºC was the suggest maximum and according to the Ilford Paper Processing Technical PDF, page 4 of 6, full development is within 22 seconds. As the processing bath gets used up, having a bit of insurance by shortening developing time, I have approximately one complete stop of developing time up my sleeve.
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/f.../product/1706/
Are you talking about roll film? I know that original FP4 sheet film had a rather fragile surface. They even interleafed the sheets with thin paper for extra protection. Even the current FP4+ is capable of edge frilling at 75F. Lots of films have trouble at that temp. And RC papers, whether color or b&w, are distinctly different from fiber-based products in that respect.
The main thing is not to have a huge temperature imbalance occure during the processing of the film. All the chemicals and washes should be within the developers temp range.
Thats why i kind of like rodinal, as long as you have the ability to mix it into water, it will work.
But room temp is pretty much a good general fact.
At work, i am in a factory, there are a few guys who randomly wear their "safety t shirts" to work. follow the linkage please
https://www.temu.com/ul/kuiper/un9.h...471B5FF66537D2
the problem with generalizations is they aren't completely true ..Originally Posted by monochromeFan
like anything else it is just knowing one's materials and camera and your own ( or taught to you ) methods.
some films ( and papers ) and developers don't care if there are wide margins some do.
tri x in 68F DK50 followed by water (stop) and fix 50F and wash water out of the tap at 45-50 was the routine for a long time, never gave me (or anyone else who worked where I worked (since the 30s/40s? ) ) problems, and a friend used to regularly develop film at 80F and fix/wash at 65 never any issues ... I personally have made it a point to not care, to. me at least none of this stuff matters. the polyvinyl fillers in film these days ( used to stretch emulsions ) are the things to look out for. they probably cause a lot of trouble but by the time people figure it out, well ... it will be too late to hoard for the zombie invasion. manufacturers have adjusted and changed their recipes over the years so something from 10-20+ years ago pristine, no. base fog, perfectly stored might behave completely different than someone hot off the rollers and notched last week .. both exposed and developed the same way. it's like the difference between potato chips with an 7 inch long ingredients list filled with lactose, soy, corn syrup and 5 different gums & al. vs potatoes, salt and oil .. 1 will give you all sorts of illness and certain death, the other is a great side dish when you are enjoying burgers and dogs on the grill, and will probably only kill you if you over indulge .. YMMVFTSOTWATUCL
Last edited by jnantz; 28-May-2024 at 04:40.
Talking about sheet film, as well as roll film.
As Harman give processing temperatures up to 26ºC for their FP4+ film, I wouldn't expect to see wrinkles (frill) on the edge of the film. My personal experience with FP4+ has never shown wrinkling in any shape of form through many different types of roller transport processors, nor in Dip N Dunk, rotary and/or inversion processing in a very wide range of temperatures, but mainly between 24ºC to 27ºC.
I do remember the interleaving with very thin sheets of paper, and, believe it or not, my last (open) box of Ilford Newsdot reprographic film in 30.5 x 45.7cm size, also has very thin paper interleaving between each sheet of film. This film is as tough as hobnail boots, is designed for 30ºC roller transport processing. So while paper interleaving was a thing for continuous tone panchromatic films, it was also for orthochromatic sheet films, with this box purchased around 2013.
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