Just make the notches. They don't impinge no the image area. Make them with a knife, if worried about dust. I have a number of film holders with notches and some with the little number wheel. I don't use any of it, my negatives all get processed together at the same time. I spent a good deal of time and money developing a system to print with different grades to accommodate my subject matter.
I just keep a notebook of exposures. Date, subject, exposure, holder number. Each holder has number and A/B for each side. It's been my practice to make two exposures of each subject- I work in the field where dust on the film is your enemy- and sometimes more, if I want to change exposure or development. Then process the sheets from one side of each holder, review, and make changes to the duplicates if/as necessary. I learned that method the hard way a long time ago... far less comprehensive than the famous Ansel Adams notebook that takes 1/2 hour to fill out for each exposure, but it works for me. Thankfully I've had very few problems with leaky holders over the years, despite using some rather ancient ones in the past.
seems like a lot of work to notch holders. For black and white work, I just put the film into my Jobo tank sequentially and keep the holders in order sequentially in the darkroom. I write on the film holder what the image is and f/stop, shutter speed, recommended development. When developed I take the film out of the tank and put the sheets into the film washer in order. Probably if it were really important I would develop similar shots in separate batches. I do double shot everything and that way I am able to change the developing time to get more or less contrast. I have tray developed, Kodak tank and hanger, developed and Unicolor tank developed this same way. Then its up to using printing techniques to get the visual idea to its best for the image.
what Mark Sampson does. I process in Expert tanks, which have numbered chambers. I note which chamber has which sheet and then use twin checks on the sleeve and photo log book (B&H sells a very useful one). I also expose two sheets and will adjust processing as/if needed.
I have a bunch of notched 4x5 holders but prefer the labeled holders instead as I don't really dig seeing numbers (Grafmatic or Riteway holders) or filed notches, in my image area.
notch codes ? I only use one film...
I now seldom shoot more than 4 and I know what I shot.
I also seldom leave the cave
Tin Can
I made notches in my film holders using a dremel type tool and a thin cutting wheel. I marked for specific holder numbers so that there are no more than 2 notches that are close together, and no film holder has more than four notches total. The right side as you look at it is for I or II, the middle is I (for 5) , the left is for I (10) and II (20). So for 6 film holders I made markings for #'s 1, 2; 5,6; 10, 11; 15, 16; 20, 21; 25, 26.
The set I did as above were older Graflex holders made of wood. I did have to do some clean up on the edges of the cuts with an X-Acto knife and blow out the dust.
I bought a tiny dremel saw blade to try for my next set which are Lisco Regal holders made of plastic (Rhinolite!). I am hoping the plastic will cut with the saw blade and not melt like they probably would if I used the diamond cut-off wheel.
My notch marks do not intrude into the image area. I only make them as deep as the bottom of the slot for the dark slide so the edge that is normally covered allows exposure through the notches.
Last edited by Offhand35; 6-Feb-2024 at 13:34. Reason: Additional comment
I feel like some people didn’t read the OP. I asked about alternatives to notches and got referred back to the notches!!!
I will sometimes indicate, on the outside of a used holder, with post it notes with the info needed and an indication of clipping corners (clipping on the way into the developer tank). Generally I clip 1-4 corners but one could get fancy with which corners. After the film is dry I will write with a fountain pen on the rebate edge the pertinent info, checking the post it notes for which clip is which. Usually I record the lens and the f stop when I do this.
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