Thanks for advice. Not it is clear for me.
Thanks for advice. Not it is clear for me.
I find it sometimes very useful to think in terms of volume, not stops and pops, just because that's what you're really working with; a doubling or halving of light by aperture, or speed or, measured light or a combination, plus filters.
Halving each volume of light the film is receiving is just as easy but demands a very controlled flash(s) units.
One more thing you might want to print up, depending on if your lenses have 1/2 or 1/3ed F-Stop divisions, because sitting in a studio in the dark trying to work out that math really sucks and will drain positive energies we all need to confidently do our photography.
It also looks bad if your client or model has to wait for you to do your sums.
IMO.
More Power, less math.
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
I usually test using X-Ray
I set my studio scene
and have trays ready for action
Almost as fast as Fujiroid
When I had no shutter for the lens, I turned on Red Safelights in my entire studio
and shot pops like a Print Test Strip
My entire 650 sq Blacked out
Tin Can
I added up the damage:
For 14,800 WS of power, 12 flash heads, 4 soft boxes, 16, 10+, and 5+ reflectors, barn doors, filter holders, stands, snoot, grids, umbrellas, triggers, cords, including tax and shipping. $2,400 and the market is so slow I doubt I could get that back but that's only 2/3s the price of a single new 2400 WS power pack, no flash head. Didn't need that much power but it's like I bought one studio for the reflectors and another power pack came with and who doesn't like spares?
Color shifts are kinda inevitable if you're multiple popping and shooting color. I've gone up to 20 pops with 375J and I got Very tired of doing that! I have been bracketing, cheap enough with XRAY, not so with Panchromatics. I think you start getting into diminishing returns after so many pops. Sometimes I don't want the light in close, more power! is the answer. Like Mal Paso, I lucked into an astounding value of Biggie strobes for little money. Also Modifiers can cost you a lot of light, I have packs up to 3200J which can get you to F22 or F32 in one pop. The bigger the Modifier, the more the light is spread out, requiring more pops or power, your choice. My choice is more strobe power, enough to do the job. Films and Plates I like go all the way down to about EI 1.50 or a bit less. Like shooting wet plate, you need a lot of strobe power if you want to be spontaneous.
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
Flashbulbs can be very interesting
Of course, 1 Pop
Tin Can
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