You might consider this:
https://www.popphoto.com/story/how-t...usehold-items/
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
I second the caffenol suggestion, but bring your materials with you, sometimes it's hard to find vit c powder and washing soda ( you can use baking soda but the amount to use is different seeing it's hydrated ) cause sometimes the ingredients are hard to find, and .. use it a lot with varied lighting before you go because it's not like any developer you've used before. I'd avoid salt fixer, it doesn't work well. it takes a long long time and it just stabilizes the film it doesn't really fix it ... I figure the OP is using 8x10 film probably wants them to be fixed and not soaking in a super saturated salt solution for 3 days . ... and while caffenol works great, there is a learning curve, I imagine since LF film the costs like 4-10$ a sheet he doesn't want to rush into things, can't pull a superman and fly around the globe to reverse time and do a do-over. I mean I've been using caffenol as my main developer since IDK 2006, helped author a book about it, and probably processed between 2 and 5000 films ( sheets, rolls and paper negatives ) probably more, and im still learning how to use it.. the problem probably isn't finding a developer and fixer to use but how one disposes of it, seeing pyro, metol, hq, tea, and used fixers don't do nice things to the natural world ... and one can use everything from one's own pee and tears to develop and fix film ...
Never used it but there’s always Chemgon to dispose (neutralize?) the fixer and developer….
https://www.infectioncontrolproducts...%20that%20easy!
I am sorry guys. I am giving a hard no to the caffenol suggestion. It is just as easy to mix a simple developer like Thordons two-bath and I kind of trust that a lot more.
Cinestill Df96 Monobath. Was quite happy with results I got with Rollei IR.
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