Originally Posted by
Alan Townsend
Andy,
I suggest using the Foma/Arista EDU 200 rather than 400. It's also available as Frankenstein 200 at B+H in 4x5 only. This film has almost the same (many shoot it at 150, I use 200) sensitivity as the 400 but with better linearity and less grain. This is the cheapest regular film available in 8x10, and it is good quality other than reciprocity.
Also, consider Fuji HR-U green xray film, availalble with shipping for $42.00 for 100 sheets 8x10. This orthochromatic film works fine for contact prints or small enlargements, but is less sharp than camera films due mostly to halation effects. Process easily in gallon size ziplock bags due to two-sided emulsion tenderness. The film can be processed under red safelight. Put the film in ziplock bag, then add chemical, zip it up after burping air, then lay down flat. Agitate intermittently by raising flap of bag a few inches then dropping. Leave film in bag for all process steps, just pour solutions in and then out later at proper times using index finger to hold film in place. In this way you can process several films at a time using several timers. You can go all the way through to washing cycles without removing the film from its bag. The bags can be turned inside out for drying and later reuse.
With only 3 chemicals, you can do all processing. Mix metol and sodium sulphite for D-23 developer for 1:3 dilution. Develop 6-7 minutes for EI 100 using 4 fluid ounces as one shot. Water wash one minute, then fix in plain fixer using 30 grams of hypo (sodium thiosulphate) per liter of water. This dilute plain fixer is also a one shot, and will fix the film in under 2 minutes. It washes out much quicker due to soft emulsion and dilution of fixer. Wash in 3-4 changes of water with some agitation for about a minute or two each, then hang to dry. This is the same chemistry that I use for all films.
Have fun,
Alan Townsend
Bookmarks