Horizontal Mirror - horizontal projection with Devere 108

[M/A]

I don't have any trouble projecting horizontal with my Durst, however, I don't have any way to process 50" sheets of paper.
I'm always curious how people are processing the large prints. How will you be doing it; tray, trough, drum, machine??
Attachment 239741

I am using troughs for 50" paper and process the paper buy rolling for about 7 min dev, then stop, fix, wash, wash aid and wash again the usual way. drying is another topic

[John Layton]

Here is my single-tray setup for 30x40's. Two-gallon tubs of chems on the left which pour into tray, then empty container goes to other side where its re-filled via a water sealed hatch, then gets slid back underneath tray after next chem is poured in. Print is gently squeegeed between steps to save maximum chems. Tray is rocked to agitate. Wet print is only handled once - rolled around a pool noodle and removed to hang-dry. I also have a larger tray for 40x60's...which takes larger (4-gallon) tubs of chems:
Processor Feed Side:

Processor Dump Side:

[xkaes]

There are lots of great, inexpensive, 90° angle, rotating, front-surface mirrors for 35mm lenses. Some names are Squintar, Angle-Scope, Mirro-Tach, from Spiratone, Aetna, and others. Unusally under $10. They are all the same, and have a Series VII thread on the back so they are adaptable to anything. That's what I use on my Besesler CB7. I just screw it into the from of my lens with step up ring(s).

[M/A]

There are lots of great, inexpensive, 90° angle, rotating, front-surface mirrors for 35mm lenses. Some names are Squintar, Angle-Scope, Mirro-Tach, from Spiratone, Aetna, and others. Unusally under $10. They are all the same, and have a Series VII thread on the back so they are adaptable to anything. That's what I use on my Besesler CB7. I just screw it into the from of my lens with step up ring(s).

Thank you I will look into it - but I think it won't cover larger enlarging lenses which I will be using to enlarge 4x5 & 8x10 negatives.. some of the lenses are simply too big. - also I would assume different print size and different focal length will require for the 45 degrees angled mirror to be in specific distance from the lens, so I would imaging more flexibility will be needed here, and to reduce the discrepancy in quality it may be a good idea to experiment with a newer more clear mirror since the innovation in optical grade glass and mirror today would be better than using older generation glass and mirrors - but I would need to figure out the mechanics and a way to precisely align the mirror with the lens, then I will need to deal with alignment of the enlarger with the wall, which is another topic

[xkaes]

You may be right about the filter thread on some lenses. The longest lens I have is 150mm, and the widest is 55mm -- which is a perfect match for the 90 degree adapter I have, since it's series VII. The adapters were designed for longer focal length lenses as the ads show, and alignment with the enlarger lens is not an issue because it screws right into the front of the lens. Aligning the enlarger to the wall is a separate concern, but with extra large prints I've found no problem at all thanks to DOF. I do stop down, and this can mean really long exposures, however. And I've never had a problem with the quality of the images. I have my doubt that results with a newer front-surface mirror would be noticeably different -- otherwise known as the null hypothesis. I think I paid about $10 for my like new Mirro-Tach, and maybe $3 for the Series VII adapter.

[nolindan]

... different print size and different focal length will require for the 45 degrees angled mirror to be in specific distance from the lens

Distance per se doesn't matter - the mirror only has to cover the 'cone' of light rays coming from the front of the lens. The closer the mirror is to the lens the smaller the mirror can be.

[M/A]

You may be right about the filter thread on some lenses. The longest lens I have is 150mm, and the widest is 55mm -- which is a perfect match for the 90 degree adapter I have, since it's series VII. The adapters were designed for longer focal length lenses as the ads show, and alignment with the enlarger lens is not an issue because it screws right into the front of the lens. Aligning the enlarger to the wall is a separate concern, but with extra large prints I've found no problem at all thanks to DOF. I do stop down, and this can mean really long exposures, however. And I've never had a problem with the quality of the images. I have my doubt that results with a newer front-surface mirror would be noticeably different -- otherwise known as the null hypothesis. I think I paid about $10 for my like new Mirro-Tach, and maybe $3 for the Series VII adapter.

excellent! so potentially that should work up to 150mm, if that is the case its worth having a go at it for sure. as for long exposures - my enlarger has 2000w of light so I am hoping it will work well together. do you have photos of your setup? how large did you make your prints?

thanks!

[M/A]

Distance per se doesn't matter - the mirror only has to cover the 'cone' of light rays coming from the front of the lens. The closer the mirror is to the lens the smaller the mirror can be.

true enough - but that together with the distance from the wall would effect print size?

[xkaes]

excellent! so potentially that should work up to 150mm, if that is the case its worth having a go at it for sure. as for long exposures - my enlarger has 2000w of light so I am hoping it will work well together. do you have photos of your setup? how large did you make your prints?

thanks!

The focal length is irrelevant. It's the width of the filter thread that matters. If your 360mm lens has a filter thread less that 60mm (2.5"), you shouldn't have a problem.

[xkaes]

true enough - but that together with the distance from the wall would effect print size?

Not really. The distance from the negative to the paper is the same if a mirror is in the middle, somewhere -- or not. It does not add or subtract any distance from the lens to the paper at all. No need to change exposure.

One thing I should mention is that these mirror "boxes" rotate, so you need to get it aimed at your easel -- right in the middle. You can do that with a scrap negative with a spot or hole placed right in the middle of the frame.