Originally Posted by
chuckf
I've tried using this tank over the last there years as I slowly got involved with LF. I started with the Harmann Paper Positives, but had the shadows of the holder on the paper.. but as I had other problems like pre-flashing, film speed and duuhhh ..reversed images. in that "I could've had a V8 moment, I moved to film. The film I used was ADOX CHS II and while some were semi ok, almost all my negatives had traces of shadows in the light ( sky) areas. I wasted most of Adox honing my loading skills and taking care etc, that these were not user induced. Stearman offered the Ver 4 holders, which are quite different. Now using Fomopan, then new holder etc have not made any improvement. I suspect I will have to move on. But I did want to try and resolve why some of us are having these problems. With Fomopan, roll films I usually pre-soak to get rid the anti-halation backing. I then rinse the film clear, thae begin development usually D76 1:1 , Stop with water circa 1:00 min, and then fix for five, sometimes ten minutes.
Since I've read a bit on Stearman site, saying don't pre-soak. I tried that . Another time I've kept agitation constant during the fix cycle with and without pre-soak. I really wanted this to work.. Love the design and economic chemical use. I'd like to hear from others.. what film/developed combos have worked. Not all anti-halatrion backings are colored? But color or not, is this the problem? The PH of the water? I have not conciously made a distilled water test as my (gallon) developer is now mixed with tap water. as is the 1 liter fixer. Film isn't cheap and will eventually try this later with ony distilled weter. Not yet ready to waste another four frames, buy new film and different chemicals.
Bookmarks