Thanks to al, very much. Reply from builder prior to his seeing these responses:
"An AC to DC rectifier coupled with a DC to DC relay should do the trick."
Your thoughts?
Thanks to al, very much. Reply from builder prior to his seeing these responses:
"An AC to DC rectifier coupled with a DC to DC relay should do the trick."
Your thoughts?
Philip Ulanowsky
Sine scientia ars nihil est. (Without science/knowledge, art is nothing.)
www.imagesinsilver.art
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156933346@N07/
Buy a 120vac coil w DC contacts. A 'contacter' is such a device. Check contact currents.
my picture blog
ejwoodbury.blogspot.com
Rectified AC is just higher frequency w overtones. Basically a mess unless you filter or regulate.
my picture blog
ejwoodbury.blogspot.com
I may go back to where I started with LED heads, I last experiments 8 years ago
Adjustable LED are now everywhere
The new cheap rechargeable panels may work for me with B&W
I don't care a whit about colour
Can you use a simple plug in usb power supply to feed 5v trigger voltage to the arduino? I haven’t tested the power on time for these, but I’m sure you could find a quick responding ac to dc power supply.
Well, due to these difficulties or relatively major expenses to solve them, we are going back to elgatosuizo's original controller design, and, presuming it all works, I will probably be selling my Zone VI head and timer eventually.
I am insisting on keeping my footswitch, which is apparently no problem (it connects on a phone line wire with jack now). I am also making sure there is a second-counting beeper, which I find valuable.
In addition, I have prevailed on getting a dry-down timer built in as well. According to my builder, this is not a problem at all, merely a matter of creating a design clean for the total controller .
I'm really excited by all this, and astonished that it is coming together in this way, as the result of a passing mention in a casual conversation about other things.
I am hopeful that somehow the new unit may allow me to get from Fomatone Classic something closer, at least, to the higher contrasts I can achieve with Ilford WTF (discussed in another thread), though that's not a deal-breaker. If this works reasonably well, I'll be a happy man indeed.
Philip Ulanowsky
Sine scientia ars nihil est. (Without science/knowledge, art is nothing.)
www.imagesinsilver.art
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156933346@N07/
Excellent! I’ve finalized the parts list for the enlarger I’m building, and just this evening got back the last quote I was waiting on, so I’m almost ready to build mine as well. It’s pretty amazing what we can build these days. Traditional enlargers were designed by teams of people at companies who specialized in this, so that a single person like us without a whole lot of experience can build something this advanced is amazing to me. What are you using for a chassis?
My builder is planning to 3D print a box for the light head, if that's what you're referring to. He will come over today with callipers to take measurements and then design it in Fusion CAD. I'm really just buying the parts and watching with fascination, hoping that it will work out well enough. Maybe eventually I'll be able to afford to build (i.e., have someone build) a head with only Royal Blue and Green Cree LEDs that others have made, which requires careful though to heat sinking and a number of other considerations. So far, I have spent less than $85 on parts for the LED panel, power source, arduino, wiring harness, and white plexi. Controller box and additional parts still to come.
Philip Ulanowsky
Sine scientia ars nihil est. (Without science/knowledge, art is nothing.)
www.imagesinsilver.art
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156933346@N07/
Just thought I'd post an update.
A faceplate for the controller has now been created. It has an LED readout and two dials separated by a power on-off switch. One dial controls exposure time, which has semi-one-tenth-second intervals, a slight refinement of the 1/10-second intervals I'm used to and may be overkill, but that's what we went with. The other dial is for drydown percentage, 0-15%, like the Zone VI timer. A click on this dial changes the mode to adjustment of R,G,B, and overall intensity (brightness level). I don't expect to change to RGB levels unless some paper seems to benefit from, say, more blue in my "white" -- recall, I am using my Ilford filters, not adjusting RGB for contrast. Intensity level adjustment is rarely needed, unless the head is really low for a small print.
A port for my footswitch, which now uses a standard phone jack but will be different, will also be included in the controller.
The design for the LED and diffusion plexi enclosure, i.e., enlarger head, will be a single, 3-D printed piece, round at the top to attach to my D2 and then rectangular to hold the LED mat and diffuser.
My friend has asked me to purchase some smaller components to replace his initial choices. These are on order, and I hope to have a provisional unit to test out for fit and light-balance/contrast print testing in a another week or two.
Philip Ulanowsky
Sine scientia ars nihil est. (Without science/knowledge, art is nothing.)
www.imagesinsilver.art
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156933346@N07/
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