Nova slot processors?
Nova slot processors?
I process film in a Nikor tank.
Turn on the taps and let them run till temps stabilize.
Run the water into a small container say a measuring cup.
Insert thermometer and adjust to desired temp.
Having a dual basin sink in my kitchen, I stopper one side and fill with water.
Insert chemicals into the bath. Use some sort of support to keep dev tank top above waterline.
Insert thermometer. Leave water running.
This seems to work well though it is a waste of water.
Decades ago when I was doing E6 (100 degrees F) I used a small cooking plate like an electric skillet.
Add a pot large enough to hold 6 pint bottles and water. I did countless rolls of 35 and 120 film this way.
Regards
Marty
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...E-6)-under-100
as an update, I've tested it for both, it works very well
I did the sink/tupperwear thing for almost a year and got sick of it. Two years ago I found the easiest way to get the correct temperature +/- 1/2 degree Celsius is with a water bath. They are used mainly for medial and scientific use, but are perfect for photography. I can fit 3 1L beakers of chemicals plus my Patersen or Nikkor tank in mine and it will keep a constant temperature. All you have to do it push the power button walk away, have lunch, walk the dog, or catch up on news and your chemicals will be waiting for you at the correct temp in about 30 minutes. They range from $40 for a basic heater to over $300 for a microprocessor controlled model. I paid around $100 for mine on the big 'bay 100 degrees C. Mine is worth about $500, but it was a local pickup only so I saved a bunch.
Cheaper than a Jobo and just as good if you don't need the fancy crap.
Here is mine, As you can see it can hold my chemicals, C41 at the time, plus I can use my thermometer to check the temps in the bottles to make sure they match. I can dial in the temp on the bottom dial and it's dead accurate.
Here are some on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRECISION-WA...item27ed16a84f
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Equatherm-21...item3a937dda38
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VWR-Scientif...item4d20a86d63
Signature deleted as to not offend certain people
I use stainless steel developing tanks (2 gallon tanks that can hold 8x10 holders) my utility sink in my garage at night with Fuji Hunt Chemistry. As long as you can make your bathroom light tight it should be fairly easy to do in a bathtub. Let the temperature stabilize a little over 101F (gives you time to load hangers), turn the lights off and go to work. The developer is the only temperature that's critical, and it's only in the developer for 3:15 unless you're push processing. I've processed about 35 negatives so far with results that looked the same as the ones I've had processed in the local pro lab here (Excellent). Shootar's water bath idea is a great inexpensive way to go as well, I just haven't gotten one yet. Also, the start-up price is a bit high (It cost me around $350 to get all the chemistry), but it's enough to last a really long time. I figure I'm about half way to them paying for themselves (based on the processing cost at the lab). If you can handle developing black and white film you can handle color.
http://www.hassmfg.com/biased_guide.pl/1213638750-2927
yes Hass wrote it, but then it does describe options
back in the day and i was not there, emulsions were processed at ambient, sometimes very cold and hot as they needed to process regardless
film was processed in cold airplanes as they flew away from the enemy
Tin Can
I do not remember where I got this idea - but it works great
I go a cheap sous vide cooker off ebay, and a big aluminum cook pot at the dollar store - put a cut out in the side of the pot to position the device
fill the pot with water
set the temperature on the digital controls, let it run until the the chemicals come up to the right level - this works for Stearman (4x5) tanks or Pattersons insert for 5x7
i do not see why you couldn't do it with a bigger tank for 8x10
if nothing else - you can keep a supply of water available at a set temp
I develop my sheet film in trays, and what I do is to consider the ambient temperature, and figure that the temperature of the solution is going to drift towards that.
You can get a close idea by setting out a tray of water, at, say, 70 degrees, splash it a little for 6 minutes (or whatever time you develop for) and see what it drifts to.
If you start at 70 and it drifts to 68, if you use development time for 69 degrees, you're probably very close.
Another way is to use those devices that give you water flow at a set temperature, and you have your trays in a shallow water bath, but I am working without a darkroom sink.
Has anyone checked out how accurate a hot water on demand system would be for film development?
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