Bob, is there a missing link or photo in your post? Not clear what "one of these" is.
Bob, is there a missing link or photo in your post? Not clear what "one of these" is.
Richard - that's how I do it 100% of the time. I don't know what all the other fuss is about. But I never focus halfway between anything - there is always some critical plane I want in precise focus, and then use the magnifier to determine how much play in focus either direction this will tolerate beofe losing its own precision. I generally do this stopped less further down than my final working f-stop, for sake of both easier viewing, and for sake of further eliminating any margin of error. Way easier than getting distracted with a bunch of math. Composition + Focus & Depth of field = one integrated step.
I like to initially focus the camera halfway between near and far to get things roughly correct and then use a loupe to tweak the focus to where I want it. I agree with you Drew and like to keep the process as simple as possible so I can concentrate on the image and not clog my brain with other matters.
Theory and charts ...perhaps a smart phone app; there is plenty of stuff out there to be sure.
Yet, "The Ground Glass Is Truth" has always been a valid guide. I am visually impaired and so work slowly. Ont technique that has worked for me is to place a focusing target in the composition, even several at times. Any high contrast pattern will do and there are commercially available items out there. I have often used a bar code panel from some package. They come in differently sizes and are cheap . . .you already have them around the house.
Put one or more into the composition and use the camera's movements to get the DOF you seek. If you cannot get what you want, it is not possible with the equipment you have, or the composition you envision.
Drew Bedo
www.quietlightphoto.com
http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo
There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!
"as I am shooting color negative and would like to keep the shutter faster than 1 sec if possible."
supplemental lighting, may the force be with you.
Thanks,
Kirk
at age 73:
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep"
Well, a true master has just hit the nail squarely on the head. Somehow (like most of us) I missed the OP's shutter speed requirement. Of course lighting takes the project to another level entirely, and raises many other questions.
In my past industrial career, I found a way to solve the DoF issue- not through my own efforts though. in about 1990 my department bought a 4x5 Sinar F2. That camera (and I assume all modern Sinars) has a depth-of field calculator built in. And once I figured out how it worked, it proved to be quite effective. If I was shooting interiors commercially on 4x5 now (I haven't since '09 o so) I'd want an F2. Not sure that helps the OP, but it's one answer.
I carry a small millimeter ruler and use this same method for all my photos.
In practice, the application of this is simple: focus on the near, focus on the far, note the distance between near and far points on the camera scale, position your focus halfway between and use the appropriate f-stop from the table.
Randhir Singh
randhirsingh.net
This is the Sinar DOF scale on the focus knob. Handy if applied properly.
IMO, the better method, direct viewing of the ground glass with a loupe and lens stopped down as needed. Keep in mind there is a single essentially flat plane of focus. If camera movements are applied this plane of focus curves. Closing down the aperture imposes what is to be in apparent focus, not actual lens plane focus. In short, decide what area in the image MUST be in focus, then decide what would LIKE to be in focus, then apply camera movements or move the camera or use a different lens or ... a needed to achieve this.
One can do much math, gander at graphs and more to try to project what might or might not be in apparent focus, yet the view camera has the gift of direct ground glass viewing which can provide an astounding amount of information about the image to be recorded on film. It is often much about learning how to use and get the most of of viewing the ground glass image and using a focusing loupe as a very effective focusing aid.
Bernice
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