I was going to say the same thing as Bernice. You might want to consider the 360mm Heliar - that is what I use on my 8 x 10. You might not get much movement at all with the 300mm.
I was going to say the same thing as Bernice. You might want to consider the 360mm Heliar - that is what I use on my 8 x 10. You might not get much movement at all with the 300mm.
I have a Svedovsky 8x10 which is quite sturdy. It comes with 140mm x 140mm lensboards which seem to be Sinar size. According to Svedovsky they are likely to fit.
Why 8x10? Because I can do contact prints and I want to do wet plate as well. I know that for wet plate I don’t need a shutter, but want to see if I could use it for film as well.
I know 8x10 is more expensive, but it seems to be the perfect intersection between LF and ULF ( usability and results). Personal opinion of course, which is subject to change 😉
This isn’t meant as publicity, but here’s some comments on the stability of the Svedovsky and the compatibility with Sinar: http://svedovsky.com/svedovsky-8x10-first-look/
Yes, no mention of the shutter, hence my remark that I would have to look into it. I don't know if the lensboard size has anything to do with the shutter compatibility. Shutters seem to go everywhere: in front, behine, in the middle
Since there seem to be various sinar shutters I'm also not sure which one to get.
Here's another source of info I found: https://www.timlaytonfineart.com/sinar-copal-shutter
Not to beat a dead horse, but only Packard is still making new shutters just as they have since 1885
https://packardshutter.com/
I have bought bulb and hose from the seller, which are the best made, I highly suggest OE Bulbs
and I have 2 NOS shutters in box, but bought many used
I had trouble at first with using the bulb as my hands were weak, but I fixed that personal problem
I have installed Flash Sync with Microswitches easily, the modern switches are $2, the OE Sync does work but many don't have it
IF you buy a Sinar shutter make sure it has the cables, they are rare
Tin Can
WP and contact prints ok, now where and what kind of images are your goals?
If you've never done sheet film before, know there is a STEEP learning curve and the learning curve is made steeper and more $ due to film size. IMO, many reasons to start with a smaller sheet film format size, then move up once the basics skills and needs are well understood and well practiced.
As for camera, it goes back again to what the image goals are. What lenses are required to produce the images in mind. If the exposure times are long, using the lens cap with a stop watch works good, no shutter needed.
No folder-field camera of the same film format size will be more sturdy than a GOOD monorail camera. Monorail cameras have less of a weight-bulk restriction allowing them to be built a LOT more stout than a field folder which is often specifically designed to be light weight, easily portable and folds up for transport. In the case of Sinar, it is modular like Lego, film formats can be interchanged easily. Specific to the Sinar P, the front standard is rated to support about 8 pounds of lens in front. Rear standard can be used to support small video cameras and such or the 8x10 P rear standard can be modified to larger than 8x10 by adapting film back and bellows. All this comes at the cost of size, weight, reduced portability and related.
There is no camera that is meets both requirements with perfection, it is ALL a set of trade offs. This is why figuring out what the image goals are is SO important making the camera choice being of far less importance as it is (said many, many times here) really a light tight box that is flexi in the middle with both ends adjustable and ideally stable.
What about tripod, light meter, film holders, dark cloth, ground glass magnifier, transport case and all other items related to making any sheet film images?
IMO, the Svedovsky 8x10 at $4100 USD is over priced as there are SO many excellent used view cameras on the market for far less $.
Save your $ for film, chemistry, print making goods and related image making items as this is where the real cost of doing LF is and where light can be coaxed into producing expressive images.
Bernice
Thanks for your concern .
First of all, the svedovsky cost me 2000 Euro ( I have ordered it 6 months ago), new. I don't know where you got the 4100 price from (http://svedovsky.com/cameras/8x10-camera/). I preferred a new camera and did research before I bought it. I prefer not to get into a new system only to find out that parts are no longer made and then having to pay an arm and a leg on second hand stuff because it's rare.
I have gotten a Gitzo tripod on ebay, I have several light meters, a dark cloth, a magnifier, film holders etc... I have already developed my first few sheets with success, it's not rocket science and I think I have the basic skills . I have been doing my own film development for a couple of years now (35mm and Medium), so I am not a complete beginner. I have taken workshops for wet plate so I know how that process works and I have the materials, although I must admit I haven't made my own chemicals yet. So I want to do primarily portraits, both film and wet plate or even other alternative processes, with the occasional landscape.
I prefer to pay a little more for good gear that lasts longer and is a joy to work with than turn every penny and suffer and give up. I fully appreciate that there are a lot of great old camera's around, but so far it seems I made a good choice with the Svedovsky. It is compatibe with sinar stuff, toyo film holders I bought second hand work great and the support I got so far is good.
I am not scared by a steep learning curve, nor am I scared to ask questions, so voila.
If the Svedovsky 8x10 works with the Sinar shutter, get a Sinar shutter, select your optics and make images.
Not a lot more to discuss.
Bernice
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