That is the kind of cable I use.
Alex
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
That is the kind of cable I use.
Alex
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
It's just a cable with connectors, if you plug it to the remote (or to the flash) and then you use any metal thing to short circuit the ends in the free conector then the flash (or remote) should fire.
Check the pdf manual for your devices (flashes, remotes) to know if a socket is for input (to fire the flash or the remote) or for output (to fire other flashes or remotes).
The Profoto site shows the B1x as having a 3.5mm mini phone cable.
Copal shutters, from many documentation sources, indicate a standard PC connection.
The Hama cable you linked to has a 3.5mm mini phone on one end, and a PC on the other. This system should work.
The main issue is you are going to need a lot more power to go from typical 35mm working apertures (5.6-8) to get to 4x5 working apertures (16-22) for equivalent depth of field. As long as you are two stops away from using your heads at full power you should be fine. I shoot portraits with 500w Bowens heads and it's easy to get up to full power if your shooting through a soft box.
Neildw:
I shoot Profoto heads in the studio with full-frame digital, medium format film, and large format 4x5 and 8x10. My approach to lighting is the same regardless of equipment. Do you have the Profoto air remote? I'll send you a photo of the air remote plugged-into my 300mm on an 8x10 (when I'm in the studio tomorrow.) I'm far from an large format expert, but have a lot of experience with Profoto.
I have the B1X, the B10 and half a dozen D1's. I shot architecture with strobe on 4x5 for a dozen years before digital. What you want is a radio slave and a PC to MiniPhono cable. Easy peasy with Copal shutters and you get flash sync through the full range of shutter speeds. If you get the B1, buy Profoto's Air Remote. Avoid the TTL model, it's more expensive, useless to you and eats batteries in a day instead of weeks. The B1 has the radio receiver built in, so you don't need to connect anything to it to sync. The B1's aren't the strongest at 500ws, so depending on how close you can get them, and the modifiers, you'll probably get f/11 or /16. You can get the D1s at 1000 ws if you need more power. I've had mine nearly 10 years, they've flown around the world and they never break.
Crewdson uses big movie set lighting.
-CB
Christoper is right on. I'll add a couple comments to elaborate on what he mentioned. The B10 (250ws) and the B1X (500ws) are battery powered and capable of TTL metering (in addition to manual). The D1's are 1,000ws, plug-in, and are manual. If you we're set on working in the studio, I'd get a D1. It's the most powerful of the 3 and you don't need TTL. If you think you might want to take your strobes out of the studio, I'd get one of the other for the battery powered capability.
As promised, here's two images showing my 300mm on my 8x10 plugged-into the PC cord you referenced earlier. When the shutter trips, the air remote trips the strobe(s). The other photo shows the air remote plugged-into my light meter. This is the simplest way I've found to trip the strobes when pressing the meter's button. There are other ways, but this is not only the simplest (IMO) but the cheapest.
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