I've been practicing all that with Bowens Esprit strobes and a Sinar Norma.
Technically, the only problem that I had is that the old contacts in the LF shutters may not make a good electric contact. Those contacts were made for switching a higher voltage (than the one used today) and because of a thin oxid layer it may missfire the flash.
To avoid problems I made an auxiliary triggering circuit, this is a 9V batt feeding the PC conector in the LF lens, the PC output goes to an optocoupler (CNY74-2, cheap), then to a resistor and then to the batt negative. The other side of the optocoupler it's what triggers the remote link for the flash.
Let me know (PM) if you have problems with that, (this may depend on the shutter model), I'd send you easy instructions to solve that if you have that problem.
In practice I found pretty useful using the DSLR to evaluate illumination, not the same result than with film but it's interesting learning to interpret the DSLR image to predict the LF film result, a flash meter can be of great help, but the dslr image also shows how the rim/effect is working, the fall, the light modifications, the glares, etc
At least the DSLR pre-shots help to not wasting film while learning (in my case).
I've also rigged the DSLR to the Sinar for two things (shooting at same time), one is determining if the shot was good, face expresion and open eyes, people like to close eyes when you are to shot
and you have to guess what you may have in the sheet.
The other situation, I was testing pseudo i-TTL with the Sinar-Nikon rig, so with low ambient illumination and LF slow shutter speed I made the LF shutter fire the DSLR, and the DSLR was TTL/Ratio controlling the strobes, in that case I was using Yongnuo YN685 i-TTL Speedlight flashes instead the Esprits.
Let me add an opinion, some praise the beauty of natural illumination (me also), but if one learns to illuminate like Karsh then he has a few more choices...
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