Adding a flash synch port to a Graflex Super D/RB

[edgately]

Does anyone have some experience about how to go about adding a flash sync port to a Graflex Super D/RB style camera? I would like to know how to go about doing it myself. Any advice/instructions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

[Bob Salomon]

X, M or F synch?

[Dan Fromm]

Add? There should be one.

http://www.graflex.org/articles/series-d/features.html

[LabRat]

Not so easy... The sync (I think) triggers the flash to the open shutter widest slit (for FP flashbulbs), which means you have to drop the mirror down fast after your indoor exposure... The next slit does not fully open for the time x sync would need the entire frame (where it would be tempting to add rear contact fingers + a strip to close the trigger at shutter wide open...)

The easiest way (but not for portrait shooting) would be to add a lens with leaf shutter (with sync), open rear shutter, compose, close front shutter, pull holder slide, fire front and return slide... I know it partly defeats the purpose, but not unheard of if you used a SG for leaf & FP together for light capping while winding FP...

For portraits with my Super D, I use sunlight or hot lights, because one problem I find with open flash is the holdover flash glow can be bright enough where when someone's eyes move after the main burst, there can be strange dim catch lights in the eyes on the photo...

Steve K

[Dan Fromm]

Steve, you want to use #31 or #2A long peak flashbulbs. The Bible, 10th ed., says they're usable at 1/200, 1/400 and 1/1000 with 3x4 Super Ds, at 1/1000 with a 4x5 Super D "if the back of the camera is used in the horizontal position." It reports that "many users ... are securing adequate results at 1/400."

If the OP wants to use electronic flash, he's out of luck.

[edgately]

Thank you all for your responses.

Dan... Looks like I might be confusing the RB Series D with a Super D. I might just adjust my focus toward the Super D.

Bob... to be honest, whatever will work or can be adapted to work with speedotron packs I have.

LabRat... thank you for the information. I will only be using flash for portrait work.

[Dan Fromm]

Ed, the Graflex focal plane shutter isn't suitable for use with electronic flash except in a completely darkened room. Electronic flashes' flash duration is much shorter than the time the shutter takes to traverse the gate.

[edgately]

Thanks Dan. I’d also add that I’m shooting wetplate collodion, so at fast shutters the studio is essentially completely dark (iso <1). I am aware of others doing this with modern flash systems. I may try to reach out to them directly.

[Tin Can]

Open bulb

I have done it with X-Ray, the whole studio is under red light

Focus with white light

[mdarnton]

Bad info here: that's definitely not correct about the lack of shutter speeds with Graflex cameras that have flash sync when using strobe, or the necessity to use only big FP bulbs, or the need for a separate shutter!

The proper way to use strobe on a synced Graflex SLR is what's called drop shutter. The shutter is set to the widest curtain, "0" which means that the film is completely exposed through the shutter, however, with the mirror down, no light gets in. Then the shutter is fired. In sequence, first the mirror rises uncovering the film to the lens and the outside, then next triggers the flash, then next it triggers the shutter to go from open to fully closed. At low tension, the resulting speed is about 1/5, at high tension, more like 1/10. This is fine for most work where you're going to use a strobe (i.e, studio). This same strategy can be used with any bulb, even AG1 if you're so inclined.

These speeds obviously also work with no bulb, also, if you need a slow shutter speed on your Super D. I used to shoot a lot of available light this way with 4x5 Polaroid 3000 film in my Super D.

The traditional ad hoc way to synch the earlier cameras is to wire a switch hanging above the mirror lever at the end of its travel so that when the lever goes up it triggers the flash. These days, a microswitch with a long arm would be perfect for that.