When you look at it, its clear. When you scan it, it gets inverted - therefore it'd be all black.
Thanks for these suggestions - I've tested this camera thoroughly, and it seems to be working properly. The exposures I've made in daylight came out properly, but the ones with studio strobes are not. I need to test again with constant lights to be able to isolate the flash sync as the problem.
I'll add that I did, in fact, remove the darkslide when exposing. On one of them I nearly forgot to replace it.
I develop my 4x5 using a Yankee Agitank, so I develop 12 sheets at a time. In the last batch where the 4 studio shots were "clear", the other 8 negatives developed properly. These were shot outdoors, and with a different camera. I am confident that the development process was followed properly. I used Rodinal at 1:25 @ 9:00 @ 68°F, Ilfostop, and Rapid Fix.
Regarding loading the film backwards:
I loaded that film today, with the notches on the right side of the holder when loading.
Stumped!
You can try to open the shutter on "B" then pop the strobe, then close the shutter. Just test to make sure your "B" setting works. That way you ensure to get the full power of the flash pop exposure (plus a little extra ambient light exposure). If that works, then maybe synch is an issue--but can be still worked by using the "B" setting as described.
To make a quick check without using film, take the back off the camera and look through the lens during a flash-synched shutter firing. If you want to make it extra-obvious, point the strobe directly into the lens. You'll be able to tell whether the strobe is firing when the shutter's open.
BTW, is the shutter sync set to X for electronic strobe? If it's set to M, (for flash bulbs), that may be the problem.
"I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."
Sounds like a strobe sync problem. As Mark notes above.
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