“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
This may not flow with the progression of this thread so far, but I thought I would contribute what I can.
I have had success with a minolta md 100mm f/4 macro lens shooting at f/8 using a sony nex-7 (aps-c). I've included a screen shot of a test I did a few years back demonstrating a 400% crop. As you can see, the resolution is impressive. However, I understand this is not a standardized line test.
Fortunately there is a repository for all things Minolta which provides a more comprehensive review of this lens (and others). http://www.rokkorfiles.com/100mm%20macro.htm
If this helps at all and if there are more question that may aid in your project I would be happy to contribute what I can (I can run more tests with this lens/camera arrangement if there is a need).
Good alignment and focus are critical for scanning, as is avoiding vibration or stray light.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
The scale is different for this take. It's 1:1. Sharpness is limited with a pixel size for that lens. It outresolves my humble 16Mp Sony aps-c , so going Sony 24Mp aps-c will improve things further. I have no tests on a full frame.
My Magnagon was taken from nonfunctional Agfa XY15 scanner. Serial starts with 115. The lens is a standard M39 connection. It has a UV/IR filter (looking magentish and was very hard to unscrew). I found that filter do not harm image and left it on.
If I remember right I saw different Magnagon in Topaz scanner: it was smaller and was different focus length.
BTW those Scitex lenses were taken from formally Screen scanner. There was a breaf period when Screen sold relabled Scitex Smart scanners. Maybe Scitex put dog lenses in those? ;-) Anyway when you see marks on a Scitex S-3 lens it's OK. They marked lenses for the best optical position in scanner.
This is a good link.
Yes. In my plans is to write something about it. I made a target that can be placed on a lens plus mirror trick for alignment.
Another BTW: I did't touch focus between center-corner tests. Will show you my setup later.
Pardon my ignorance, but Agfa made Magnogon lenses. Is the lens you pulled from that Agfa scanner one of them or is it a Rodenstock Magnagon?
The word "pulled" made me to remember What Was It to remove the cold welded lense from the scanner going to landfill. After some hours this Rodenstock Magnagon lens was saved.
Just to keep the "reference" here: Epson Perfection V800 Photo taken from http://www.filmscanner.info/en/Epson...V800Photo.html
Those guys do not bother to test corner performance. Anyway here it is (center):
Yes, it's not that hard to do better than an Epson with a Dslr system, and by that I mean about 1000 dpi more resolution and a stop more dynamic range. Whether that's a big deal or not depends on the end use.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
OK, I'm convinced I should at least seriously try this scanning. I have a Nikon D800E & Nikon 105mm micro VR lens. Also have an older small color corrected light panel. I want to scan 35mm, 120, 4x5, and 5x7. I'm thinking I could scan 35mm & 6x6 with one shot, 6x9 with two shots & stitch, 4x5 with 4 shots & stitch, and 5x7 with 6 shots and stitch? What ebay copy stand will work for me? What gadget/mount will allow me to precisely move either camera or negatives to do the stitching? If this works as well as I hope, I could sell my Nikon Coolscan V and Epson v700.
Kent in SD
In contento ed allegria
Notte e di vogliam passar!
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