The wind today at the Bisti won a battle with me and my camera. Of course I didn't have my spare with me which is highly unusual. Time to look at replacements. Anyone here have any experience with Steve Hopf's Borosilicate screens?
The wind today at the Bisti won a battle with me and my camera. Of course I didn't have my spare with me which is highly unusual. Time to look at replacements. Anyone here have any experience with Steve Hopf's Borosilicate screens?
Thanks,
Kirk
at age 73:
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep"
Kirk,
I have, and highly recommend you. Maybe it's also a good idea for you to get + one as spare, never know,
Cheers,
Renato
I have one too. Excellent. It is not a bright screen. Just groundglass. I had him put a silver grid on mine. You can see it when you need it. It sort of disappears when you are not looking for it. Steve is easy to deal with and quite responsive in my experience.
I've got one, the borosilicate is good - and beyond that Steve is definitely a decent guy to deal with. I messed up the details of an order once, and he did a lot more than I expected to help me out.
Borosilicate is 3 to 6 % brighter then regular soda lime ground glass.
The bad side of brosilicate is it harder and breaks a lot easier.
Richard T Ritter
www.lg4mat.net
I have the Steve Hopf borosilicate glass - he does very good work and was very good to deal with. The borosilicate has a slightly warm cast to it - sort of pale straw yellow tone unlike normal glass that tends to lean towards green. The grind seems to be a very good balance between fineness (for detail) while avoiding a hot spot. Cheers, DJ
Me too. If it is indeed the glass of Pyrex, it has a lower expansion coefficient, which is why it is good for hot materials. I think a previous poster mentioned that a thin(ner) version is used for ground glass, which makes it more fragile in practice, (but perhaps not in theory).
Your fractured glazing looks like a clear cover over what's probably a plastic screen with integral fresnel. If that's the case, I suggest merely replacing the cover glass. In my 4x5 and 5x7 cameras, which have Maxwell screens of that type, I replaced the clear cover glasses with AR-coated versions made by the manufacturer of Intenscreens. One can order those (separately, without the Intenscreen itself) through B&H.
Steve Hopf: yes! I had Steve make a 5x7 for my DD. I highly recommend.
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