Tank Developing LF Negatives?

[jbenedict]

You can also roll Jobo tanks on any flat surface, or a manual roller base (Jobo #1509). Isent the holy grail of 4X5 processing an Expert tank?

Holy Grail meaning something people are looking for, can't find and desired. The only Nikor tank I've seen for sale is the one I bought. Granted, I haven't looked too hard after I got mine and didn't like it.

Even today, Expert tanks are pretty easy to find. Without getting into a fight about "best tank", the Expert is very easily loaded and the results can be seen in many places. They are more expensive today than they were 5-10 years ago. Jobo 4x5 tanks which use reels are pretty good and easy to load. I've never loaded mine without the Jobo loading device so I don't know how necessary it is. Don't use it much since I got the Expert.

(I seem to remember that the Nikor tank was marketed by Honeywell. Could be wring. Been years since I have seen the tank.)

[fishbulb]

There are almost always Nikor 4x5 tanks on eBay, at least for the lasts six months or so. It did take me a while to find one with the concentric circle cap style though.

[Jager]

Thank you, gentlemen. This has been very helpful. I'm encouraged that there are apparently a number of ways to daylight-process LF film.

Fishbulb, especial thanks for your long, thoughtful reply with links to other resources.

Jeff

[Goldman]

Hi Jef,
I develop my 4x5 Black and White negatives with Paterson tank for 4 film Developing tank without the reels. You can do two negatives at a time at will take 800ml of solution. I glued two strips of plastic approximately 3mm thick inside the tank on the both sides (from the bottom to the top) which protect the negatives to slide and touch during the process. Don’t forget to put the central piece when you load the film. I use Ilford Perceptol developer 1+1 or 1+3 and inverse it 4 times every minutes.
Bill

[kenj8246]

Since no one has mentioned it, there is also the taco method: https://www.flickr.com/photos/digi-f...7627864733730/ for the Paterson tank. I use it and have no complaints. Uses 750 ml of solution for 4 sheets which is the max you can do in this fashion. You will hear complaints of uneven development and problems with consistent fixing from the 'rubber' bands. Haven't experienced the fixing problems since I switched to the fabric covered pony tail bands. You'll also need to keep an eye on the lid coming loose from vigorous agitation but it works for me.

[Luis-F-S]

I had an inquiry about what agitation to use with open tank and film hangers. What I've always used and was taught is as follows: Presoak the film in plain water for 1-2 minutes and agitate occasionally. Agitate as follows, hanger up, hanger down around 1 second for each motion. Do this twice. Be firm, using a slow motion and allowing the film to drain is what causes streaking. Raise hangers and move to the developer.

Then there are three hanger motions: Raise the hangers to the right and replace (twice); raise the hangers straight up and replace (twice); raise the hangers to the left and replace (twice). I do this continuously for the first minute of development , then for the first 10-15 sec of each minute after the first. After development is complete, move to the stop and agitate continuously for 30 sec, the move to the Fix (if rapid fixer) for 3 minutes and agitate continuously. Then move to the wash.

Good luck!

[Tin Can]

I cannot recall where, but some suggest not moving film in hangers sideways. At all.

So I don't.

As posted elsewhere, I am having great results using stand, which means stand.

[Liquid Artist]

For 4x5 I use a Paterson super system 4. I load 1 sheet bending it just enough so it fits in. Rotate the tank 180 degrees then load a second sheet.
I did try the Taco method, and all sheets I tried had hairline cracks in the emulsion.

For 5x7 I have an old Ilford Cibachrome Mark II processing drum.
I load the film basically the same way except only 1 sheet at once.
I then pour the developer into the funnel type end. I then roll it on its side and keep on rolling it for the set time.

[Michael Kadillak]

I had an inquiry about what agitation to use with open tank and film hangers. What I've always used and was taught is as follows: Presoak the film in plain water for 1-2 minutes and agitate occasionally. Agitate as follows, hanger up, hanger down around 1 second for each motion. Do this twice. Be firm, using a slow motion and allowing the film to drain is what causes streaking. Raise hangers and move to the developer.

Then there are three hanger motions: Raise the hangers to the right and replace (twice); raise the hangers straight up and replace (twice); raise the hangers to the left and replace (twice). I do this continuously for the first minute of development , then for the first 10-15 sec of each minute after the first. After development is complete, move to the stop and agitate continuously for 30 sec, the move to the Fix (if rapid fixer) for 3 minutes and agitate continuously. Then move to the wash.

Good luck!

Why expend the effort and risk of over agitation (surge marks) and the time in the process when you can use gas burst agitation in tanks with hangers with the flip of a switch? Gas burst was the industry standard in sheet film development for over 40 years (if you had E6 or C41 development for your sheet film at a commercial lab the odds are 95% it was gas burst). Plus you can do stand or semi stand (longer interval between burst) as well as standard agitation in pyro and standard developers. Because of the fact it is mechanical agitation there is no human operator error. Nitrogen costs are minimal when you make the investment in a pressurized tank and if you do it right (according to the Kodak publication), it just flat out works. Gordon Hutchings in his Book of Pyro book claiming that you need customized tanks and hangers to prevent surge marks with gas burst is an unfortunate technical mistake. He just did not do his proper research and the article I wrote in View Camera a few years back spells it all out. I am into results and simple is my mantra.

[Tin Can]

I will be going into Nitrogen Burst sooner or later. It is very cheap and safe, with standard bottle safety and correct regulators.

I have been studying 1977 Calumet Pro Catalog with all it's gas burst workings.

I suppose our Michigan man made all that Calumet gear, maybe he can do it again...