Building a ULF 14 x 17 to 20 x 24 Camera

[StoneNYC]

Stone, thanks for bringing this up. I used a piece of acrylic for the ground glass. I went to Lowe's and got a roll of window frost which is like window tint but it is a translucent material that gives me a fairly bright image on the GG. I like this because it is light and if it ever breaks I should not have shards of glass in the bellows which may destroy it. I had the store cut it to size and the frost is easy to apply.

Acrylic, do I just use that word? "Hi I would like to buy a piece of transparent acrylic please"?

[jon.oman]

Jim,

Do you have an image of the focusing mechanism? How is it attached? How does it work?

Thanks!

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jim,

Do you have an image of the focusing mechanism? How is it attached? How does it work?

Thanks!

Jon, I'm. At work right now and I'll. Check it out when I. Get home. In the meantime check out my good friend Vinny Walshs' website as he has images of how it is attached.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Acrylic, do I just use that word? "Hi I would like to buy a piece of transparent acrylic please"?

Stone, you get a sheet of clear acrylic and have them cut it to size. Then find the window frost. Ill try to find the link and post it.

[Joe Smigiel]

Frosted acrylic is also available. I replaced the glass on a homemade 8x10 box camera and it was OK.

Another cheap route in a pinch is translucent Magic tape on regular glass or clear acrylic sheet I guess.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Frosted acrylic is also available. I replaced the glass on a homemade 8x10 box camera and it was OK.

Another cheap route in a pinch is translucent Magic tape on regular glass or clear acrylic sheet I guess.

Joe, thanks for that. So many great ideas. Greatly appreciated.

[Fr. Mark]

You can frost glass by sanding it with grey wet dry sand paper or even 220 garnet paper. Or loose carundum powder.
I've often wondered why people use glass when acrylic aka lexan, plexiglas, is more breakage resistant and lighter.
I suspect it is because glass is much more rigid and in modern times, very, very flat.
My 8x10 currently has a glass ground glass but due to the scraps of glass and wood I used to make the holder for the glass, it really only shows 1/2 plate right.
I have plans to make another that properly displays 8x10 and it will be from salvaged acrylic.
Tracing paper, waxed paper could also be used but are v. fragile.
Anybody a Star Trek fan? Where do I get transparent Aluminum?

[Michael Roberts]

Jim,
Would you please give me some details on the rear frame bracket and knobs? I'm planning a new 12x or 14x20, and this is the only thing holding me up. Your rear brackets look like they are made of walnut--are they? Or are they aluminum and walnut?

I presume the knob and related hardware can simply be loosened and tightened to open/close the camera--but what is the inside part of this--how is it connected to the bracket??

Thanks!

Michael

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Michael, I'll have to find the info on the 80/20 that I used for this. Basically the arm is aluminum 80/20 that has been covered with Walnut. I slotted it on my mill. The base is a frame of this aluminum and the pivot it attached via a t like nut that runs in the 80/20 track. Same with the arm at the top where the Knob is. The rear frame is the same aluminum covered in Walnut and I drilled a hole where the arm is attached and inside is a t nut in the track. I tightened it down and then ran the bolt for the knob through the front. I hope this helps and I may have not explained it well enough. I'll try and get some close ups of this area and find the 80/20 parts that I used to show you.

[Michael Roberts]

Yeah, what I'm wondering is what is holding the t-nut in place? Does it square up against the 80/20 track so that it does not spin? Did you weld or solder it in place?

I found some locking rivet nuts at McMaster-Carr that might work. Just wondering if you can tip me to what you found since it seems to be working well for you.

Thanks,
Michael