Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[SergeiR]

Ok, well that sounds simple enough and if I get close to the quality of your image I will be more than happy. Thanks for your insights that has removed some of the mystique with x-ray.

I am honestly not sure there is mystery with any kind of film, to be honest. Some are harder to handle, but still - basic principle is same for everything.

[SergeiR]

Attachment 129128Attachment 129128
Frica 11*14 X - ray film 510-pyro 1:300 r 20 minutes dallmeyer 3A

Cool set. Very very nice - with all the vignetting and stuff. Love it.

[salvatore]

Excuse my naive question.
I want to use a FUJI HR-T film to take images and develope it with Kodak HC110.
Which speed (in ASA or in DIN) I must set on my camera?
I have read from the web values ranging from 25 ASA to 200 ASA.
Can someone be more precise, and perhaps suggest me the dilution and development time of Kodak HC110?
In some prior tests I tried 1:31 (sol. B) and 5 minutes development time. Is it correct?
Thanks in advance.

Salvatore

[StoneNYC]

Excuse my naive question.
I want to use a FUJI HR-T film to take images and develope it with Kodak HC110.
Which speed (in ASA or in DIN) I must set on my camera?
I have read from the web values ranging from 25 ASA to 200 ASA.
Can someone be more precise, and perhaps suggest me the dilution and development time of Kodak HC110?
In some prior tests I tried 1:31 (sol. B) and 5 minutes development time. Is it correct?
Thanks in advance.

Salvatore

Salvatore,

Welcome to the forum, unfortunately because this film was not originally designed to shoot as regular black-and-white film and was designed for x-ray, there are no exact speed information, which is why you are seeing a different exposure indexes (EI) which is personal to each photographer based on their shooting habits and testing, the only way to be sure is to test yourself, in general it is probably good to start at 100 for "blue" labeled films and 400 for "green" labeled x-ray films, and then to adjust accordingly based on your test results. With your developer, I would say that 5 minutes is also a good starting point.

Unfortunately beyond that you will have to test yourself and decide on your own personal EI speed.

Good luck and welcome!

[salvatore]

Salvatore,

Welcome to the forum, unfortunately because this film was not originally designed to shoot as regular black-and-white film and was designed for x-ray, there are no exact speed information, which is why you are seeing a different exposure indexes (EI) which is personal to each photographer based on their shooting habits and testing, the only way to be sure is to test yourself, in general it is probably good to start at 100 for "blue" labeled films and 400 for "green" labeled x-ray films, and then to adjust accordingly based on your test results. With your developer, I would say that 5 minutes is also a good starting point.

Unfortunately beyond that you will have to test yourself and decide on your own personal EI speed.

Good luck and welcome!

Thank you very much for your quick and friendly response!
I will start with 100 ASA and 5 minutes development.

[Corran]

in general it is probably good to start at 100 for "blue" labeled films and 400 for "green" labeled x-ray films

No, 400 is not what "green" film is. Possibly that EI would be for the high-speed blue emulsion, but the green film such as Fuji HR-T is about ISO 64 or 100. Basically between 50 and 100 is a good starting place on either.

[mdarnton]

I started with green at 80, but I'm edging back to 50. Under tungsten lights it's probably more like 12. But 400? No way. This film has enough problems with contrast and shadows that you don't want to start right out throwing your shadows in the trash. Stone, if you're really getting good results at 400 you need to check your meter.

[Corran]

Stone, if you're really getting good results at 400 you need to check your meter.

He isn't, he doesn't even shoot it.

[Randy]

I gave Arista Premium Liquid film developer a try:

8X10 CSX Green latitude @ ISO 200
1:18 from concentrate, 9 minutes @ 68 degrees in trays with slow continuous agitation.

[StoneNYC]

I started with green at 80, but I'm edging back to 50. Under tungsten lights it's probably more like 12. But 400? No way. This film has enough problems with contrast and shadows that you don't want to start right out throwing your shadows in the trash. Stone, if you're really getting good results at 400 you need to check your meter.

Guys, as I stated in some earlier post, this is information from a friend of mine who is an x-ray technician, he told me that the blue speed films are roughly 100 and the green speed films are roughly 400 and that things like half speed and such would be obviously half of whatever the normal color full speed would be, this is what he told me about the sensitivity of the film to natural light, I cannot confirm or deny that all films are the same as that, I have only shot Kodak EKTASCAN (Carestream) and AGFA CURIX UV-G

I don't know if UV-G means Green or has nothing to do with the "color" indicators, I have no clue what speed it's supposed to be, I just started with 100 and played around, my testing says it's closer to EI 50 with Rodinal 1:50 for 6 minutes still isn't quite right, so far I haven't found any X-Ray film to be easy and although I'm able to make an image I have found to an extent that it's much more difficult than using regular film which is already tested for visible light shooting.

The Ektascan is the hardest (for me) of them all to shoot with it seems, irony...