Quote Originally Posted by Glenn Goldapp View Post
I use 6 trays. First is water. Second Developer, Third is a weak stop bath. Fourth is first fix. Five is second fix. I fix for 1/2 the time recommended in the first fix and 1/2 in the second fix. As the first fix begins to exhaust I replace it with the second and make a fresh second fix. This ensures that the negatives are always fixed fully with a fresh fixing bath. The Sixth tray is hypo clearing agent. It is then into the wash tank. I have been using this system since 1972 and to this day the negatives are as good as the day they were processed. Actually learned this in Yosemite from Ansel Adams. I fix the prints the same way but without a hardening fixer so that I can tone the prints with Selenium. It seems to work as well with the prints because I made a series of prints in 1981 which I have kept boxed over the years. Still sell those prints and they look as good as the day I made them. One final comment should be added. With film and prints the wash tank should have a slow overflow with a small drain or syphon at the bottom to allow any chemicals that settle to the bottom to flow out.

That is the best generally accepted way to archivally process prints as the paper absorbs chemistry and is difficult to clear, but ... somewhat overkill for film. I have my first negatives from the late 60's and they are just fine.

Develop - stop - fix - into a film washer

A great wash was the key from my education on processing.

bob