Hi all,
I have been experimenting with macro on my Sinar F 4x5, only to encounter many issues and re-shoots along the way.
A current example:
Shot in the studio with AlienBee B800s, one triggered by a Pocket Wizard the others follow via slave.
Camera
Sinar F
210mm Rodenstock Sironar-n F5.6
Portra 400
Metering (All taken incident, Sekonic L-508)
Background:
2 B800 with reflector (1/4 Power)
Meter - F256
Subject:
1 B800 with reflector & 20° grid (1/16.5 Power)
Meter - F90
Bellows 23in = 3 stop compensation
Expose F32 1/8sec
Results as follows.. As you can see, the subject is drastically too dark. There's some detail, but it's drastically under exposed & the vibrant color is non-existent.
This was scanned on an Epson V800, simply laying the film on the glass. I've made slight adjustments in the scanner software in attempt to obtain the maximum amount of detail. No further editing was done.
Questions
Metering: Is my incident meter and the modeling light not accurately portraying the scene? I only use the model light to predict the light shape, shadow, etc. but it seems to provide little to no use aside from focusing. I've tried using a 1 degree spot, but focusing on something so small with spot seems impossible. What's recommended for the most accurate metering?
Depth of Field: How can one predict the depth that will be covered at higher magnifications? I'm trying to find the line between maximum aperture and avoiding diffraction. Alternatively, there are instances I'd like to shoot shallow, but it's hard to understand given the magnification what aperture is the perfect amount of DOF and what aperture may be too shallow.
Color: I'm still working to learn how to control color with a desired film stock. I've been shooting without a lens hood, I'm sure this play a role in contrast and color, but what techniques are used to understand color in relation to the film stock, lighting source and subject? Are there dedicate color meters? As Portra and Ektar are similar daylight balanced film, does that mean the general rules will follow between these two stocks?
Strobe: The B800s have created their own deal of tension in this as well. Consistent misfires and unpredictable modeling light projections. Are there tips to helping these two issues? Also, I've been told strobe may have it's own unique color. How can I factor this in? As I'd prefer continuous lighting at this time, strobe is the only thing available. I feel they will be able to help vastly as I can freeze and multi fire to compensate for lost exposure in bellows. Still, this invisible aspect is really hurting my end result, as I can't accurately predict the lighting I've created.
Overall: Many of these issues arise out of my lack of experience. As many before me had polaroid, I have no testing material to ensure that the lighting and exposure will be correct. What can I do to stop wasting film and time reshooting? Are there digital backs available for this purpose? I'd prefer not to use a DSLR, as I feel this will only complicate the issue. Alternatively, what are techniques available to help minimize these issues.
If you've made it this far, thank you for your time & any advice you may have.
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