Bernice is correct of course
but some also value different lenses
Check selling prices of old lenses without shutters
Tin Can
I think i can fix it with some needlenose pliers.
The screw that cocks the shutter came off, but it looks like it was just pressed in. I did get it to go back in but as soon as you cock the shutter it pops out. I think a small touch of epoxy glue on the end and them pressed back in should do it.
Ok so i guess bottom line is this a good lens i paid $445 for ?
I did go under a high magnification and put some epoxy glue and pressed it back in, time will tell if it will hold, i will know in 4-5 hours of dry time.
It looks like the hole in your lensboard is for a Copal #3 shutter, or similar....you need a lensboard with a hole for a Copal #1.
Don't get discouraged...many of us have been down that path.
It's a copal 1 board. Yeah, this camera leaves a lot to be desired, I'm going to send it back or do some mods myself to improve it.
Got the lens on with no problem, there is movement in the lens board, and it wiggles ever so little, need to put something to tighten it up, let the mods begin.
Here is an example - chromatic aberration of a 150mm Rodagon and a 150mm Apo-Rodagon-N from official Rodenstock publications, brought to the same scale. The difference between the other modern APO vs. non-APO lenses of the same type is about the same. As seen in the graphs, it is no more then 1/3 of the total amount. In big enlargements, it can be noticeable but most often it does not matter in practice - while on the secondary market, the difference in such lens prices is often 2 to 4 times.
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