Pooped and PO'ed With POP ...HELP!

[Richard K.]

OK, I've tried, I've really tried, but I just can't seem to get EVEN toning with this process. I'm using Centennial POP and the B&S Gold Toner. Whether I agitate like a madman or whether I just let the print sit in the toner, I cannot get a nice uniform toning effect. The edges go gray or less brown (depending on how long in the toner) compared to the print center. This evens out a bit in the fixer step but not enough to not ruin the prints which are a beautiful tone in the center but gray at the edges. What am I missing here? This is a beautiful process, using my pyro negs that work well for Pt/Pd, but I just can't seem to get past this step. The only thing I've thought of trying is to use 16x20 paper instead of the 11x14 paper that I am using for my 11x14 negs hoping that the uneveness will stop before reaching the image area, but this may be a vain and expensive hope. Is there a technique that will bless me with even toning??? Any insights appreciated! BTW, is it straight to fixer after toning or rinse first? Thanks!!

Richard

[William Marderness]

Try using larger trays. The edges of the print is receiving more agitation (and more toning) because of the edges of the trays.

[Chad Jarvis]

What exactly is the B&S gold toner? I'm gonna take a wild stab here and assume it's gold thiocyanate. If it is, trash it. After years of experience with different toner formulae for POP, I've come to the conclusion that toning in GOLD BORAX is the only way to go. Gold thiocyanate is too inconsistent, requires two bottles and doesn't keep. Gold borax can be kept in one bottle, is very consistent, keeps well and yields great color.

Use this formula if you're interested:

500ml water 4g borax 8ml 1% gold chloride solution.

Obviously you can tweak it if you want a stronger/weaker solution for shorter or longer times.

Keep in mind that gold toning should be done BEFORE fixing. If you want a toner you can use AFTER fixing (which implies even deeeper exposures - like to the point where the shadows solarize), try selenium:

500ml water 5ml Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner.

Same deal: adjust the concentration for longer/shorter toning times.

Enjoy.

[Michael Jones]

I agree with the larger tray suggestion. You also may consider using a more dilute solution. That eliminated many of my toning problems. Good luck.

Mike

[Chad Jarvis]

For sure a more dilute solution will help, but your toning times will be commensurately longer. I meant to mkae this point, but I got sidetracked by my obvious bias for borax. Sorry for not directly addressing the question. (Say it with me anyway...BORAX...BORAX...BORAX!)

[ronald lamarsh]

I haven't had any trouble with my gold thiocynate toner but I follow CAW's recommendation and use old toner 1:1 with water to make up my toning bath and the results are very consistent and even.

[Richard K.]

To all, thanks for the suggestions thus far. I may even try Borax...Borax...Borax... Ron and others, what size tray are you using for what paper size and what paper size for what image size? What type of agitation?

[Richard K.]

A further thought occurs....would a big shallow tray promote more even toning or a smaller one filled to a greater depth?

[Erik Gould]

I've had good results following the formula that CAW provides, but my prints are generally small, so uneven toning has never been a problem. Chad: I am very curious about the borax formula, sounds like that is the way to go. What kind of color range do you get? If it is the same or close to what I have gotten in the past, I definitely will give that a try.

[Chad Jarvis]

Regarding color: the one thing I never really liked about the thiocyanate formula is that I found it especially difficult to achieve a nice warm tone. Not so with borax. You can get anything from a purply brown to a nice terra cotta to a Belgian chocolate. I also use it on albumen, kallitypes and Vandyke Browns with similar results.