Replacing brass wood screws with machine screws on an antique camera...

[fecaleagle]

I'll check my drill bits when I get home, but the pilot hole size is a likely possibility. Although I purchased replacements from bolt-depot and I believe the recommended pilot hole sizes came with my order. I'm usually good at reading/following explicit instructions. Anyway, the bottom line is that if I move up to a 1/4" hardwood dowel (harder than birch) with a #2 size screw, and the pilot holes are drilled to the correct specification, I'm likely to be okay.

If I go with the machine screws, I'll have more peace of mind about the durability of the work, but I will need to use a weak-medium threadlocker, and I will have to combat the occasional tinge of guilt that I have modified a piece of history with a historically-inaccurate repair approach.

[BrianShaw]

... I will have to combat the occasional tinge of guilt that I have modified a piece of history with a historically-inaccurate repair approach.

I understand entirely. "Get over it." That's what I have to remind myself any time I use a non-reversable, non-traditional restoration/repair solution that works well.

[fecaleagle]

R&R of a wood screw should be a fairly rare event. If you are planning to R&R often, then maybe the non-traditional approach would be best. I assumed (I seem to be doing too much of that too often lately) that you were planning on mounting a back and leaving it there.

Thanks to everybody for all the advice. I'll most likely dowel the loose screws that I can't conceive of needing to "R&R" more than once every 5 years, but I'll replace the ones that hold the back/ground glass on with machined inserts.

Best,
William

[E. von Hoegh]

Hopefully you won't be using allen or phillips screws.....

[Drew Wiley]

There are several ways of doing it. If you use inserts go to someplace like McMaster that
has a serious selection, including epoxy-in types which won't split the wood. As far as dowels are concerned, lots of the hardware store product is now cheapo ramin wood, with poor dimensional stability. I like to use high-quality plug cutters on a drill press instead, with matched brad-point bits. Ordinary drill bits won't leave very clean holes. But any cabinet shop worth its rent knows how to do this kind of thing.

[cowanw]

You could split the difference and use dowel plugs and then tap them for machine screws. Stronger than wood screws according to Lee Valley Tools. I just did this on lens boards because I couldn't bear the weenie screws usually used.

[Roger Thoms]

Has anyone tried this tapered reamers from Lee Valley? Looks like it might work well for repair stripped out screw holes.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...80,42240,53317

Roger

[rdenney]

You could split the difference and use dowel plugs and then tap them for machine screws. Stronger than wood screws according to Lee Valley Tools. I just did this on lens boards because I couldn't bear the weenie screws usually used.

And if you impregnate the wood with epoxy (such as the rot protector stuff like Git-Rot) and then drill and tap it for (course-threaded) machine screws, it will work even better. This is a reasonable solution for rarely removed screws.

The screws themselves will tap threads in the hole if it's just the right size. And it does hold better than very small tapered wood screws. Use the longest screws you can.

Rick "who has done this in several instances with good results" Denney

[E. von Hoegh]

Machine screws in wood? Ludicrous.
Do it correctly with wood screws, drill the correct size pilot hole, don't overtighten them, and everything will be just fine.

[cowanw]

This may be of interest.
https://umdrive.memphis.edu/jthieme/...0in%20Wood.pdf

Machine screws in wood? Ludicrous.
Do it correctly with wood screws, drill the correct size pilot hole, don't overtighten them, and everything will be just fine.