Wobbly Korona 5x7

[Graybeard]

I have a pretty Korona 5x7. The overall cosmetics are very good (no exaggeration); it has what appears to be a new bellows; and I have the rear extension track with a stamped number that matches the numbers stamped on other parts of the camera. I estimate that it is a fairly late model as it has front swings, tilts, shifts, and the hardware which secures the lensboard is the later type. As I mentioned, pretty nice and a pleasant camera to use.

When locked down, there is about 1mm of wobble at the top of the front frame; I'd prefer that the lash wasn't present but I can work around it. The rear frame must wobble about 4mm when the advance knobs are locked down; I find this excessive. I don't see any means to remove that lash from the mechanicals. The play seems to be in the guide slot on the side of the rack.

My present solution is to use a softwood wedge between the rear frame and the track to secure everything once I've found the working position for the rear frame. Not an elegant solution, but it does work and the wedges are pretty inexpensive.

My questions are:

Do other Gundlach owners face a similar problem?

If you have similar wobble in the rear frame how are you dealing with it?

Is there an adjustment or mechanical solution that I'm missing?

Thanks in advance; all comments are welcome.

[BradS]

I had a lovely 5x7 Korona some years ago. It was much like what you describe - pretty but wobbly. I believe they're just that way.

[sully75]

I have a similar Kodak camera and it does not lock down very well. I use it because it's big and wooden and people love it, since I try to do portraits of strangers, they react well to it.

But as far as locking down, I'd have to go with a monorail camera. The focusing knob is terrible and I wonder if the focusing gear is hand made. It's not precise at all.

[CP Goerz]

If you go to film holders.com Alan makes a stabilizer kit, Eddy Weston used a similar set up which you can see him with in some pics. Essentially its a rod that attaches to the front and rear standards holding them stiff and in a fixed position so there's no wiggle.

[Ron Stowell]

I also owned a beautiful Korona 5x7 that didn't get used much because of the wobble.
I now have an Ansco 5x7 that is very secure.

[Peter Gomena]

My Korona 8x10 was really loose, especially the rear standard. The hardware seemed a bit flimsy for the job. It was a good "starter" camera, good enough to convince me 8x10 was overkill for anything I wanted to do with a view camera.

Peter Gomena

[Steven Tribe]

The system - rod(s) and locking fixtures front and rear standards - pre-dates Weston.
I enclose a photo of a tailboard reisekamera (18x24cm/ 1900) which has the fitments on both sides.
It is, of course, much easier engineering when the front and rear standards have exactly the same size. The locking fixtures turn to allow adjustment.
Works very effectively in the field.

[Peter Gomena]

Hmm, Steven's post reminds me there is somebody who sells a modern equivalent rod stabilizing kit. I can't find it in my browser's bookmarks, but he's out there.

Peter Gomena

[John Koehrer]

see pst #4.

[TheDeardorffGuy]

A mm? You're kidding! really a mm? I metal camera might go 3mm. Leave it alone. Take some pics. Say a box of film. see if you can tell.