I would like some information about 300-350 mm lenses. It would be used for portraits, still life shots and general stuff.
What are some reccomendations.
Something like a Symmar-s or Nikkor-M????
I would like some information about 300-350 mm lenses. It would be used for portraits, still life shots and general stuff.
What are some reccomendations.
Something like a Symmar-s or Nikkor-M????
Why did you cut off @ 350mm? That's an unusual FL. 360mm is quite common.
What format?
Nikkor W in 300/5.6 and 360/6.5 are quite good. I have both. They cover 8x10 with generous movements.
The Nikkor M 300/9, which I also have, is an outstanding apo lens. Its 325mm IC will just cover 8x10 but with no movements.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
Garrett
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"Still life shots" could imply close focus. Verify that you have enough bellows to focus as close as you want. That could determine whether 300 or 360. Also, 360mm lenses tend to be big and heavy. If you have a studio type monorail camera it probably can handle it. If you have a field camera you might want to choose a lens whith a smaller aperture so that the lens will be smaller and lighter. If you are working in a studio, the larger aperture can make focus quicker and provide a little more choice with DOF.
Jeff Keller
G CLARON 305, a jack of all trades and especially well suited to close ups. Cheap and Fast? 14" Wolly telephoto.
If you want small, the Nikkor M 300/9 is definitely the choice.
It only weighs 290g, almost a full kilogram lighter than the Nikkor W 300/5.6.
And it's mounted in a Copal 1 shutter as compared with the huge Copal 3 used on most other 300mm lenses.
In the small size range you'll find the Fujinon A 300/9, a superb apo with a 420mm IC, 410g in a Copal 1,
and the Fujinon C 300/8.5, smallest of the bunch at 250g in a Copal 1, 380mm IC.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
You may also want to look at Commercial Ektars from Kodak.
Image circle of 380mm, for the 12" Ektar, and 440mm, on the 14" Ektar.
A limited, yet acceptable amount of movement with the 12" on 8 X 10,
(for use with your portrait and still life requirements).
Using the 14" on 8 X 10, you'll also have more then ample movement for architectural needs.
I agree that the Nikkor 300-M is awesome on 4x5...its one of my favorites.
However, I do not use it my 8x10 as it has an image circle of 325 which allows for very little movement. Some people love it on 8x10, but for me its too confining. If you dont need movements, I'm sure its great on 8x10.
Any big 300 f5.6 plasmat(i think that term is correct?) will have much more coverage, but then they weigh much more so that may be an issue.
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Still life MIGHT imply closeup work, in which case the Fujinon A or G-Claron series will excel.
You've got a choice of either 300-305 or 355-360, all of which will easily cover 8x10. Nikkor
M and Fuji C are avail 300 but less versatile on 8X10 and infinity optimized rather than close-up. All these lenses are much more compact than traditional 5.6 plasmats.
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