I have a copy of Eddie Ephraum's "Creative Elements - Landscape Photography - Darkroom Techniques" in excellent condition, if any is interested.
I have a copy of Eddie Ephraum's "Creative Elements - Landscape Photography - Darkroom Techniques" in excellent condition, if any is interested.
Absolutely spot on as to Eddie’s two books!
Read both of E’s books, one right after the other. Refer to them regularly…
Get all three!
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The rabbit hole of toning for me - I prefer Ilford Warmtone MGFB glossy or matte.
Selenium shift to brown or purple-ish
Poly sulfate toning brown to the point you like it.
Thiourea and Sodium Hydroxide Sepia yellow to chocolate depending on mix
tea & coffee staining/toning subtle to obnoxious - fiber paper only
Nelsons Gold toner. brown and black mix - sometimes reddish
Blue and Red toners
Bleach redevelop with variations on staining developers. can lead to slightly warm olive tones to brown or even purple tones.
Lith - only did a couple and they came out sickly pinkish and tan
Toning has its ups and downs and varies by image , exposure, and paper choices , which may lead down the path to Alternative print making where you get to control the tonality sometimes.
I was inspired by the Eprham's books - He changes the character of the image through his toning choices. Wolfgang Moersh is doing similar work with alternative print making.
The magic you are looking for is in the work you are avoiding.
http://www.searing.photography
MGIV tones poorly. The current MGWT and MG Classic are way way better in that respect.
My favorite blue is produced by gold toning a lith (ala Tim Rudman) print. My favorite paper for this was Sterling Lith, but it is long gone.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Haven't done it with lith but I agree the most easily controllable and most permanent is gold toning. Warm tone papers generally tone more. Of course whether or not the particular blue hue is to one's liking is subjective.
When it comes to toning I would say Rudman is one of the best, probably the best I've seen with respect to toning black and white darkroom prints.
If a more subtle shift to blue-black is desired rather than a pronounced blue, adding small amounts of phenylmercaptotetrazole to a print developer will do it. Again the effect will generally be stronger with warmer toned emulsions.
The magic you are looking for is in the work you are avoiding.
http://www.searing.photography
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