In south India hindi is as useful as english, maybe less
Dravidic languages are a different thing, while post-sanskrit languages are quite close one to another.
In any major tourist center you'll find bike rentals. Better go for a two-stroke japanese bike, made under license in India. The big, heavy Enfield bikes are very pleasing, aesthetically speaking... but the brakes are a nightmare, and most 350cc Enfield Bullet offered on rental are old and in bad repairs.
If you are lucky enough to find a recent model, 350cc or 500cc, with modern brakes and suspensions, then you can go farther from your hotel. Even on a two days trip, if you like, spending the night in some accomodation along the road. Just ask before: smallest towns don't have a proper hotel. You'll find lots of truck driver's places along the main roads (sometimes called "highways" - narrow country rods by western standards): most of them have just rope beds (charpoys) under a tin roof, open air. Not very comfortable, but it comes free most of the times, if you buy some food and drinks.
A tent would be bulkier, and more expensive.
I think that a changing bag would be more than enough.
If you unload/reload your film holders at night, in an hotel's bathroom, you'll find that a couple of towels would be the only needed tools to get a perfectly darkened room. Small windows and very little light coming from the outside.
Two more things that come to my mind:
1) for film developement, give a chance to one of those very old photographic shops (some were established 100 years ago) that you find in big and medium sized indian towns. Probably they have big standing developement tanks for sheet film. I don't know about 13x18cm, which is slightly bigger, but i am sure that you could easily find somebody who would competently develop 5x7" sheets.
TWO times i had to leave in a hurry, by train. Unfortunately there were no tickets available. I asked for the chief superintendent, and brought my girlfriend with me.
He was more than happy to show his power, and the maximum of gallantry with a foreign lady: we were allotted two berths that are routinely reserved as government officers quota, and seldom used.
If you find the right man, and ask for help, you'll be surprised by the willingness to be of some help, for the simple reason that you are a foreign visitor!
In most countries being a foreigner is a liability, not an advantage.
Have a nice trip, and...if you go to Gokarna, isn't Hampi within reach?
Never been there, but i know that's one of those magic and mystic places India is so famous for.
Buy the "Travel survival kit" for South India, and do your homework before leaving.
That way you could plan your movements, realize which places must not be missed, and restrict your traveling to easily reachable places.
Three weeks are better spent visiting fewer places, but more in depth. If you want to travel to many places, far away one from the other, you could end up spending way too much time on public transports, with little time to simply rest and get acquainted with India and its climate (and people, food, way of life, etc.). Learning how to deal with India's peculiarities could be half of the fun by itself, but it takes some time, and you can't do it in a hurry.
cheers
CJ
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