Lenses for 8x10

[ThePenguin]

How do I know which lenses that covers 8x10?

I have the info-list from this site, but that's only a limited number of lenses listed there.

I'm looking for a 210-240mm (8-9"), 300-360mm (12-14") and a longer 500mm (20")

Do I have a lot of options? As said I allready seen the lenses listed in the 8x10list, what other options are there? I shoot a lot of still life.


Thanks!

[Leigh]

The critical parameter for covering any format is the diameter of the lens' image circle. It must be greater than the film diagonal (~325mm for 8x10).

The larger the image circle the better. Having an IC much larger than the film diagonal enables you to use movements like rises/falls and shifts, which are quite common with LF photography.

The second significant parameter is the Flange Focal Length (FFL) of the lens. This is the distance from the front of the lensboard to the film when focused at infinity. With long lenses the FFL is usually shorter than the optical focal length.

The FFL tells you whether or not you can use the lens on a particular camera. Your bellows draw much be greater than the FFL if you expect to focus at infinity, and much longer if you plan to do any closeups.

Both the IC and the FFL are given on the manufacturers' data sheets for modern lenses. Finding those values for vintage lenses may be more of a challenge.

- Leigh

[Daniel Stone]

if you're not planning on shooting at infinity focus at all, Artars and dagors should fit your "to buy" list quite nicely . I have a 24" Artar for 8x10, but most of my work is at infinity, or close to it. I occasionally do "close ups" with my 8x10 camera, sometimes 1:1. When doing 1:1, remember tha a 12" lens(~300-305mm) will need AT LEAST 600mm(24") of bellows. I use a 300 Fujinon-W. Works great, nice and sharp.

Lenses DESIGNED for 1:1 are usually called "process" lenses, such as Artars, Ronars, etc... They're all great lenses, but don't have HUGE image circles b/c they're usually used at 1:1 or greater magnifications, so the coverage increases exponentially.

-Dan

[Leigh]

Hi Dan,

I agree regarding the Artars. I've never used one, but I understand that they're optimized for 1:1 (roughly), so probably not a first choice for general use.

I must disagree regarding the Dagors. I have a Swiss-made Gold Dot Dagor that's extremely sharp at all distances. In fact I almost never do closeups.

YMMV

- Leigh

[Daniel Stone]

Leigh,

Artars: I have 2(a 24" and a 16.5"). Both Red-Dot. BOTH are super good at ALL distances, infinity and close up.
Dagors: I didn't say they don't work well at close distances. Just like Artars, they work well at pretty much all distances in my experience.

-Dan

[Michael Graves]

Like Daniel, I have Artars. Both my 14" and my 19" cover 8x10. The 14 does not give me a whole lot of flexibility for movements. Maybe and inch of rise or fall. The 19 is much more forgiving. These lenses are easily my sharpest lenses. They visibly outperform my 300mm Fujinon in situations where razor sharp edges can be discerned. I don't currently have it at my fingertips, but I have a 5x7 negative of an old paper mill photograghed with the 14" Artar from a distance. On magnification, the texture of individual bricks and the wood grain of the door is easily discerned.

[Michael E]

Maybe this list helps:

http://www.graflex.org/lenses/lens-spec.html

Michael

[John NYC]

What exactly are you looking for in a lens that is not covered by one of those listed in the two lists on the forum? Price? Period style performance/construction?

[ThePenguin]

Mainly price, and also I want to know my other options.

[Ken Lee]

The Fujinon A series are corrected for 1:5 if I recall correctly, which makes them quite good for close work as well as infinity for landscapes.

Because they open to f/9, they are comparatively small and light. At the same time, they cover a rather large area, being of a modified plasmat design, rather than the Dialyte design we find in process lenses.

The 300A, if you can find one, covers 420mm, enough for 11x14. You can read more about it and see some sample photos here.

The 240A also covers 8x10, and like the others in the A series, it's small, light, and sharp. The 360A - if you can find one - is also a top performer and well-suited for 8x10.

Not mentioned are the APO Nikkors, which come barrel-mounted only. That's no problem if you have a camera which will take a Sinar Copal Shutter. I have a 610mm APO Nikkor which is sharper than I can handle, and was very affordable. If you get a Sinar shutter you can shoot with barrel-mounted lenses which are much cheaper than shutter-mounted lenses. The Sinar Shutter pays for itself, so to speak, very quickly.