RC papers is Resin (poliester) coated paper with thinner emulsion then Fiber based or Baryt papers. Many differences, RC gave plastic looking, but FB give better tonal range and you can toned FB easy.
RC papers is Resin (poliester) coated paper with thinner emulsion then Fiber based or Baryt papers. Many differences, RC gave plastic looking, but FB give better tonal range and you can toned FB easy.
Few more...
thank you very much bracan , great!
bracan, much prefer the back lighting on the latest ones!
4 boxes on the way to me in HK. I already have an 8x10 with 3 holders. One of my 4x5 lenses can cover. The suspense is building!
Great news!!! My five boxes is arive
Be careful with fresh mixed developer, first 6-8 photographs are too contrasty. Best results will get with medium used developer!
What lens you will use?
From yesterday, fresh developer
That last one is amazing Bracan!
I had my first attempt today, but underexposed it as my meter can't go low enough and I forgot to double the exposure times! Gah! Night time now, so will try again tomorrow. It looks much more than 1 stop under though. I didn't pre-flash.
Something interesting is that I processed two sheets using a Paterson Orbital print processor, That way I can process even my darkroom is not set up at the moment. I used 25ml of Ilford Multigrade per sheet. 9+1 for 5 mins and achieved a decent black. Tomorrow will try less, I hope to get down to 125ml of fluid in total for a 1-shot process.
My lens is a 250/4.8 Docter and I'm shooting some still life, wide open for now.
bracan these are great ones,
wentbackward, can you tell me which chemicals you use / developer/ fixer , are you using RC or FB Papers?
Had another go today, man the contrast on this paper is fierce! Will definitely need to pre-flash the next ones. Although nothing I'm going to post image-wise, the good news is this:
So using FB paper, 250ml of Ilford Multigrade Developer for 2 sheets. That means 25ml of developer and topped up with water. I'm using the Ilford Rapid Fixer, same amounts. Develop in the Paterson Orbital for 5 mins @ 20'C. 1 Min water stop (~200ml) 3 mins fix. Everything is 1-shot. I just dump the chemicals when done. I'm seeing very high contrast but really good blacks even with only 125ml of diluted developer. I do 3 mins of washing and change the water 3 times.
Even I was using a fill card on the still life, it was far too contrasty for the paper. I think I need to bring the scene with about 4 or 5 stops of contrast in it, use a pre-flash and try again. Perhaps next weekend now. Have just changed the battery in my spot meter as previously was using an incident meter. More control of contrast required (obviously within the scene, nothing chemicals can do here).
I don't believe my process is affecting the contrast, it's carefully controlled temperature-wise.
-Paul
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