Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[koraks]

Blue sensitive x-ray, cut down to 4x5.

I shot this as a test to see how this film would work - it just does. It develops fine in Rodinal (1:100, 4 minutes, constant agitation, no pre-soak); I exposed it as ISO 100-ish. Scans nicely as well. Grain is not too obtrusive, certainly not as this is large format and I intend to use it for 8x10 later on.

The marks on the right side of the cups on the table aren't damage to the negative (yes, this stuff is sensitive, but I was careful with this sheet) but just dirt on the table. I live in filth.

Btw, this film is the blue-sensitive Raytronix stuff you can get from eBay (which I did here). It costs about the same as the Fuji stuff and most of the other x-ray film and as far as I can tell so far, it behaves the same way as well.

[koraks]

I used the information in this thread to shoot and develop some 4x5 x-ray (8x10 sheet cut into 4 pieces - how's that for economy!?). Exposed at ca. ISO 100 or perhaps a bit more (didn't account for bellows draw), developed in a small (ca. 5x7") tray in 200ml Rodinal 1:100 for about 6 minutes. I reused the same developer from the previous sheet I developed in it and the developer seemed to be getting very tired at this point The film is Raytronix blue-sensitive stuff I got from eBay.

[Jim Noel]

I don't understand how 2L is "low volume" that's a lot of developer.

I don't use hangers so maybe that's the best they can get? I've only used jobo tanks, and those, you can do 2 sheets with just 300ml of developer.

I cannot help with your problem. But if you ever get fed up, I would suggest the jobo tanks.

Using 300ml of developer for two sheets of 8x10 is stretching the activity of the developer. The quantities listed on the Jobo tanks are minimums to cover the surface, not necessarily the desired amount for even and consistent development.

[StoneNYC]

Using 300ml of developer for two sheets of 8x10 is stretching the activity of the developer. The quantities listed on the Jobo tanks are minimums to cover the surface, not necessarily the desired amount for even and consistent development.

Not for Rodinal. Only need 1ml max per 8x10 sheet. So at 1:50 there's plenty for a normal exposure. I've even used 300ml for 5 sheets, it only becomes a problem if it's a crazy exposure. In contrast, with DD-X at 1+4 even 1000ml is pushing it... So depends on the developer's exhaustion rates.

[SMBooth]

I use one gallon deep tanks. A five minute water pre-soak, with intermittent agitation. D76 full strength with 15 seconds agitation each minute, for a total of six minutes at 68 degrees F. Thirty seconds in a vinegar stop bath with agitation, and 10 minutes in a hardening fixer with intermittent agitation. Finally, I wash the negative in running water for 20 minutes.

Agitation: I use the Kodak method, which I have used for forty years. Pick up all hangers, straight up, and out of the tank. Angle all hangers at about 45 degrees right, and tap on the top of the tank edge. Immerse the hangers completely into the tank. Pick up all hangers, straight up, and out of the tank. Angle all hangers at about 45 degrees left, and tap on the top of the tank edge. Repeat.

Here is a sample image, using this method:



This works for me!

Certainly looks like it does. I just got some 8.10 and 5.7 hangers, and finished making some tanks so I hope it works the same for me too.

[Fr. Mark]

About tanks and hangers. I have 4x5 and 8x10 Kodak stainless hangers, a pair of each. The 45 ones load four sheets. I made some lexan tanks that are full w/800ml of solutions. I've processes CXS green, Tmax400 and Arista edu 100 all as 4x5's with no surge marks or mottling. Also 8x10 CXS though there I found I can scratch the film on the tank lip. Need to be cautious or make bigger tanks. The slot is around 5/8" and barely fits one hanger. I don't presoak. Straight into Rodinal 1:100 or 1:50 some rapping and 1/2 up/down first 30 sec then up tilt back down every 30 sec or minute or longer if someone knocks on the darkroom door. It does take 10-15 seconds to bring the hanger up and down with tilt to let it drain.

I do have other problems: dusty darkroom, insufficiently sharp negs of extremely thin density, so I'm either under exposing or under developing. I had to print this at max contrast to get even this much contrast.

I am thinking of making tanks bigger since I have the scrap acrylic around and this time building them big enough for more film hangers. And instead of the very thin acrylic glue just using silicone caulk. My plexiglas tools aren't as good as vinny's. Btw that's a 8x10 taken 6 or 7 pm f11 Cooke triplet 18" by beseler from an opaque projector home made camera.

[SergeiR]

Using 300ml of developer for two sheets of 8x10 is stretching the activity of the developer. The quantities listed on the Jobo tanks are minimums to cover the surface, not necessarily the desired amount for even and consistent development.

Dunno. Never had issue developing 3 sheets of 8x10 in 300ml of 1:125 Rodinal

[Randy]

8X10 X-ray film with one of Rienhold's 335mm Wollaston Meniscus Lenses @ f/16

[Randy]

Grandpa's chair ~

[koraks]

Lovely tonality, Randy! Now that I have begun shooting xray film myself, I have come to appreciate photos like yours on this type of film even more!

Here's one from my end - artichoke:

Blue-sensitive x-ray film, rated at ca. 50 ISO, developed in Rodinal 1:100, agitation every 2 minutes or so for a total time of between 7 and 10 minutes. Wet print on Adox Easyprint 311.