Advice on Speed Graphic

[psychoanalyst]

Hello,

I am facing a bit of dilemna so thought I'd seek your advice.

I recently made the foray into LF and purchased my first camera from the Adorama used department. It was advertised in "G" condition and I got the camera with a 135 mm Optar lens in Graphex shutter for $210.

I am fairly happy with the camera itself. It is a bit worn, but definitely usable. Don't know if the shutter speeds (focal plane and lens shutter) have been tested, but at least the focal plane shutter is operational at all speeds.

There are 2 issues that were not pointed out to me before I bought the item.

1. The Kalart rangefinder seems off to me. When the image on the ground glass is in focus, I can still see a split image through the rangefinder. I have the rangefinder manual and I think I can re-calibrate it.
2. 1/400, B and T speeds on the graphex shutter are not operational.

Adorama has given me the choice of sending it back at their cost (I love Adorama because they are great this way) and a full refund.

But I wonder if its something that I can fix? I have seen the Graphics on the auction site, but its near impossible to figure out in what condition they are in and besides, I have seen what look like good ones goes for way higher than what Adorama gave it to me for.

I don't really have too much money to spare and I still need to buy supplies for my tray development, a light meter and a focusing loupe.

I am hoping to hear your advice.

Thanks a lot!

Avi

[BarryS]

I think you did ok and I'd keep the camera. It's rare for old cameras not to have a couple of issues and yours aren't show-stoppers. The rangefinder can easily be adjusted and at some point, you can get the shutter cleaned, lubed and adjusted. It sounds like the price you paid was fair.

[Asher Kelman]

I think you did ok and I'd keep the camera. It's rare for old cameras not to have a couple of issues and yours aren't show-stoppers. The rangefinder can easily be adjusted and at some point, you can get the shutter cleaned, lubed and adjusted. It sounds like the price you paid was fair.

Barry,

Are there technicians who can service or even rebuild the shutters?

Asher

[BrianShaw]

I'm with Barry -- neither are show stoppers. In fact, both are somewhat to be expected.


The shutter(s) are old and who knows when last overhauled. I'd suggest having the between-the-lens shutter overhauled and you'll probably be good for a long, long time. The focal plane shutter is less useful in my opinion and I would not mes with it.


The reangefinder may have been set up for another lens. First, though, verify that the ground glass and fresnel, if your camera has one, is installed correctly. Once verified then recalibrate the rangefinder.

[Roger Thoms]

I'd keep it and have the shutter CLA'ed. I bought my speed for $250 and had to do the same thing. One of these days I need to address the range finder, it's accurate but very dim. In the mean time I either use the ground glass or the focusing scale on the front rail.

Roger

[BrianShaw]

Having no idea where Asher is... look at this:

http://www.stevecamera.com/

Steve has overhauled a couple of shutters. He's not the cheapest but his work is 100% and his turnaround is reasonable.

The Graphex (or Supermatic) shutter should be easily overhaulable by any competent tech who works on LF shutters.

[Sirius Glass]

If you need to repair the focal plane shutter contact Bert Saunders at graflex.org and he will walk you through it via emails step by step. I did that with him and learned a lot.

I use both shutters about equally.

Enjoy!

Welcome to Large Format Photography Forum.

Steve

[James E Galvin]

First go to graflex.org. All sorts of graphlex info.
Check that the infinity stops on the rail are in the right place. Pull the front standard out against the stops. Focus on a distant object on the ground glass. The distance scale should read infinity. If not, move the stops till it does. Now the rangefinder should match up. If not, it needs adjusting. This can be set up for only one lens, the one you would use hand held. For other lenses focus on the ground glass and ignore the rangefinder and distance scale, and fold the stops out of the way, unless you want to readjust both stops and rangefinder each time you change lenses.
The shutter needs a CLA.

[Michael Roberts]

Your shutter problem is very common. See the thread below:

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...radio+shack%22

see posts #13 and 14

Best,
Michael

[jp]

I bought a speed graphic elsewhere and ended up needing a CLA on the lens as well. It's been great since, and such work is likely due or overdue for the majority of the ones on sale. You have to figure most of these cameras showing up on the used market have been sitting in attics or storage for decades and some end up at Adorama, some at antique shops, some on craigslist, some on ebay, some of keh. Very rare is the camera in perfect working order that gets traded by enthusiasts who simply want a different toy to get bored with.

You might end up paying $100 for the CLA, or you could spend $150 for a new used lens which might or might not need a CLA. For keeping on a budget, just send it somewhere for a CLA. Prices range tremendously for the service.

I don't think a focusing loupe is super important, nor is rangefinder operation. My speed graphic has a metal flip-up hood on the back which makes focusing in bright light a little easier. I focusing like an enlarger, racking it back and forth a little bit to see the ideal focus, then stop it down.

With other supplies, don't forget storage for your resulting negatives, such as printfile pages or whatever system you prefer. Also antistatic and/or ziplock bags for the film holders. Dust is easiest dealt with by prevention.