C41/JOBO question again!

[atlcruiser]

Hi All,
I seem to have gotten better results with the streaking issues in the JOBO with 810 porta. I stopped doing any sort of presoak and it seemed to help.

The photo below is porta 160NC @ 120. Fresh tetenal mix, pre heated tank, solid temp of 104', JOBO 2830 tank on a bessler reversing roller base. I had another sheet in the same tank with this and it came out perfect.

There is a slight streak in the sky but the real issue is the color cast on the upper RHS of the photo. This seems to go all the way into the rebate with the rebate being a deep magenta then fading into black. The area affected was at the top of the tank.

There was a slight bit of vingetting on the top RHS as well. I slightly cropped it to get rid of the worst of it.

Any thoughts?

I love the 810 C41 prints and hope to contact print them eventually. I now use a color meter and try to fix the colores on the negative to get a leg up on the contact prints once I get to that point. I am a bit frustrated that I seem to have so many issues with color/810 and doing the developing at home. Any help will be appreciated


0611 4 810 CLR.jpg by urbanlandcruiser, on Flickr

[Asher Kelman]

Hi All,
I seem to have gotten better results with the streaking issues in the JOBO with 810 porta. I stopped doing any sort of presoak and it seemed to help.

The photo below is porta 160NC @ 120. Fresh tetenal mix, pre heated tank, solid temp of 104', JOBO 2830 tank on a bessler reversing roller base. I had another sheet in the same tank with this and it came out perfect.

There is a slight streak in the sky but the real issue is the color cast on the upper RHS of the photo. This seems to go all the way into the rebate with the rebate being a deep magenta then fading into black. The area affected was at the top of the tank.

There was a slight bit of vingetting on the top RHS as well. I slightly cropped it to get rid of the worst of it.

Any thoughts?

I love the 810 C41 prints and hope to contact print them eventually. I now use a color meter and try to fix the colores on the negative to get a leg up on the contact prints once I get to that point. I am a bit frustrated that I seem to have so many issues with color/810 and doing the developing at home. Any help will be appreciated


0611 4 810 CLR.jpg by urbanlandcruiser, on Flickr

If you were scanning this picture, that color could be corrected in Photoshop in no time at all. Really, you've done superbly well for color with a drum in the air! I've no idea whether temp fluctuations could have caused this. However, can this be rolled by hand in a bath on a set of passive rollers?

Asher

Asher

[atlcruiser]

If you were scanning this picture, that color could be corrected in Photoshop in no time at all. Really, you've done superbly well for color with a drum in the air! I've no idea whether temp fluctuations could have caused this. However, can this be rolled by hand in a bath on a set of passive rollers?

Asher

Asher

I am sure it could be rolled by hand but I like the bessler motor base to eliminate yet another variable

My main goal is the make c41 contact printing easier so issue such as this need to get figured out!

[tgtaylor]

For one thing the processing temperature is way off the mark.

Thomas

[hka]

Do I understand you well? Do you have a 8*10" sheet developed in 2830 a tank?
In these tanks are ribs which potentially places additional agitation that can lead to development problems. I don't know if this is one of them.
I see also water or developer strikes a ½" below the top from right to left. It could be that the sheet was not immersed immediately at that corner or the tank was not perfectly dry. Presoak helps to avoid these things.

[domaz]

Between processing temperature being too high and using a 2830 tank- I think you are going to have issues. The 2830 tank works but it's a hack at best- it probably isn't going to be ideal for an exacting process like color. Even in B&W you can get streaks using them. However, people have had success using the print drum tanks with film development by making a simple "film sheath" here:
http://www.galerie-photo.com/porte-film-jobo.html

In french but you can look at the pictures or Google translate it easily enough.

[atlcruiser]

For one thing the processing temperature is way off the mark.

Thomas

Alright...tetinal kit suggested 104' where should it be?

Do I understand you well? Do you have a 8*10" sheet developed in 2830 a tank?
In these tanks are ribs which potentially places additional agitation that can lead to development problems. I don't know if this is one of them.
I see also water or developer strikes a ½" below the top from right to left. It could be that the sheet was not immersed immediately at that corner or the tank was not perfectly dry. Presoak helps to avoid these things.

Presoak has been a PITA wih all sorts of issues. I can understand your comment about the tank not being fully dry....it very well might not have been. I "thought" this was the correct tank to use and it does have the ribs

Between processing temperature being too high and using a 2830 tank- I think you are going to have issues. The 2830 tank works but it's a hack at best- it probably isn't going to be ideal for an exacting process like color. Even in B&W you can get streaks using them. However, people have had success using the print drum tanks with film development by making a simple "film sheath" here:
http://www.galerie-photo.com/porte-film-jobo.html

In french but you can look at the pictures or Google translate it easily enough.

Which tank should I use? I honestly thought this was the correct tank for 810. I bet i have developed 40+ B+W and 20+ c41/e6. I have had issues with both the C41 and the E6 and I would love to blame the tank.


Thanks for the info.... give me a tank and a temp


david

[atlcruiser]

Domaz....cool link. My guess here is that the ribs cause some issue with the circulation of the developer.

[atlcruiser]

Googled and answered my own temp question. I will dbl check the instructions but I am 99% sure it said 104'/40'C. Looks like 100'/38'C is correct.

[tgtaylor]

Googled and answered my own temp question. I will dbl check the instructions but I am 99% sure it said 104'/40'C. Looks like 100'/38'C is correct.

100.4F

Thomas