Fujinon 1200mm F24 Lens Found!!!

[xkaes]

I just checked and the A 1200mm weighs in at just under six pounds -- lens board, filter, cable release, and lens hood NOT included. There ain't many front standards that can handle that. My heaviest LF lens is a Mamiya 37mm f4.5 fisheye that's just over 2.5 pounds. Fortunately, it only needs 100mm of extension, so my camera handles it -- BUT COMPLAINS!

[Dan Fromm]

Joe, have you considered making a crutch to support the fisheye? That's what I did to support my 900/10 Apo-Saphir.

[xkaes]

A 900mm or 1200mm surely needs one. A 37mm? If necessary, I can just stuff something handy in between the lens barrel and the camera base board. The bigger problem is keeping the *&^%$#@! tripod legs out of the picture.

[rawitz]

Good things come to those that wait. I never thought I would be able to find this lens. I kind of jumped the gun buying filters for it based on the Fujinon literature, which says it takes a 102mm filter. In fact it takes a smaller filter (95mm X1 thread pitch)
Attachment 244134

Congratulations! Can you show us some pictures with this lens ...

regards

[xkaes]

Give him a chance to work out first at the gym on his upper body strength.

[Kiwi7475]

Dan,
what can I say? I don't notice any big difference in pic quality, although If I looked closely enough there MUST be SOME, right? Well, perhaps an almost imperceptible loss in contrast, but that may well be inception .
The only thing that becomes more critical has to do with the focal length and that is: I try not to do windy days with long lenses and have a lens support (Manfrotto 359) / and even wind deflector (umbrella on stand) handy. For that reason (and others) I mostly shoot 5x7" and 6x17cm (color trannies and b/w negs) these days, but briefly used the TC/Fuji combo when I still had the 8x10, initially as a lark, but then it worked so well, I stuck with the TC option.

PS: I popped it onto some other glass on a lazy Sunday; However, didn't seem to work that well on my 300mm Nikkor-M and neither on an 105/2.5 AI-S Nikkor (- absolutely awful there, with flat contrast and dark corners)....perhaps the Oly just doesn't like Nikon?

Just posting this for others to know... I had an Olympus C-180 TC laying around and so obviously I had to try this. I put it on my Fuji C 450mm and then put the combo on my 8x10 camera -- and immediately became concerned... the rear element of the TC is fairly small in diameter and I was seeing through the corners of my GG some mechanical obstruction (i.e. you can't see the whole aperture from the corners, even wide open). To characterize this better, I run 4 sheet of HRU x-ray film (wasn't going to run expensive film to just run a test, but x-ray is great for this!), and basically pointed the camera to the sky with a utility pole in the center. That way all the corners see the sky; and the sun hiding behind some clouds makes for a quite flat sky where I'm pointing the camera. After shooting at four apertures (f12.5, f22, f32 and f45) I go and develop them. And ... indeed, wide open at f12.5 the is a bit of vignetting but it's not awful (maybe a bit too much for slides but surely OK for B&W) but as soon as one goes into f22 the extreme corners go very dark due to the mechanical obstruction. Gets progressively worse at f32 and then more at f45. The resolution in the center portion (the only place where I have a subject) is good though.

So overall I would say this may be fine for 5x7 or 10x4 but for 8x10 it's not a real solution. Maybe you can get away with it on 8x10 if you only shoot wide open and do not use any movements, but that's not very practical in general. That's too bad, I was really hoping for this 765mm combo :-(

[rawitz]

Lately I got a Apo Ronar-S 9/800 and succeeded in cleaning a fungus lens inside and mount it on a Sinar shutterboard. On my Toyo 8x10G camera with all horizontal and vertikal shifting the lens easily covered a 35x45cm (14x18`) format with 57cmIC (and also could do with the 80cmIC of 20x25`). But mouted in Sinar-shutter IC reduces a bit depending on mounting distance.
BTW the same 57cmIC did my Apo-Tele-Xenar 12/800 Schneider lens, I would give it a 64cmIC to use it with a 16x20`camera. Schneider specs gives 50cmIC.
As a practising photographer a shutterless less is useless for me. Here the Fuji 24/1200mm lens shines, my Nikkor T ED 1200mm keeps up with minor 50cmIC.
BTW the Toyo 8x10G seems good partner for the Fuji 1200mm lens, 125cm rail and bellow extension and heavy sturdiness.
If you look for a similiar lens, there is a Apo Germinar 19,5/1000mm in Copal 3 shutter on ebay now

https://www.ebay.de/itm/325672546180...Bk9SR6in3oSCYw

regards

[Tin Can]

I use my 900mm f9 and 890mm SF with Packards

However my Nikkor 610mm is better than both and very lightweight

11X14 Studio camera with 75" bellows

Weight never a problem

[rawitz]

However my Nikkor 610mm is better than both and very lightweight

Better in what respect?

11x14`should even work with the Nikkor T-ED 800

[Dan Fromm]

[QUOTE=rawitz;1697838As a practising photographer a shutterless less is useless for me.[/QUOTE]

Hmm. All too true, but there are ways to use a shutter with a lens in barrel. I hang a Compound #5 (industrial shutter, no diaphragm) in front of my 900/10 Apo-Saphir on an SKGrimes adapter.