Scan file size

[James Olson]

I have just purchased a new Epson V700 scanner and am confused by file sizes.
I have done a search and read a number of threads but am still confused by the
size of files I should be using.
I am scanning 4x5 , med format, and 35mm
I am confused about the size I should scan at and then what size should
I save it at to upload it to a printer.

thanks
Jim Olson

[Jon Shiu]

Hi, check out the website www.scantips.com for info on scanning.

Jon

[Peter De Smidt]

Jim,

Depending on how well you set up your Epson, it's capable of resolving about 2300-2700 samples per inch. You want to make sure that your film is held at the best height, and the only way to find that out is to do some tests.

To get started, it might not be a bad idea to scan everything at around 2400 spi. This will give different file sizes depending on the size film.

Regarding printers, it depends on the printer. For many Epson, the best sized file to give them is 720 dpi at the image size. Many people, though, use 360 dpi. With Canons and HPs, I believe that 600 dpi is ideal, although many people use 300 dpi.

Hope that helps.

[Preston]

Here's what I do, if it's any help...

1. Scan the film at the highest opitical resolution of your scanner. In your case 2400 spi. Save the file.

2. Duplicate the scanned file. This will become your master file.

3. Make all tonal and color adjusments to the master file. Save this file under a new name.

4. When you want to print, duplicate the master file, size it as needed, sharpen as needed and then save it under a different name.

The foregoing does create additional files, but your raw (unedited) scan file is untouched and can be reused, if needed.

--P

[Greg Miller]

The foregoing does create additional files, but your raw (unedited) scan file is untouched and can be reused, if needed.

There shouldn't be a need to create additional files. Just use adjustment layers and smart objects and you preserve the original pixels.

[James Olson]

Thanks for all the tips
jim

[Peter De Smidt]

I prefer a system similar to what Preston uses. First, I have a folder called "photos" on it's own drive. In it I have folders called "Captures," "working files," "web," and "final". Under captures, I have "Nikon D200" and "Scans". All of my captures go into the appropriate folder. When I work with the file, the first thing I do is to make a copy in the raw converter, or rename the scanned file in Photoshop, and save it to the working files folder. This does mean that there are duplicates, but storage is cheap.

Having all of my files on one drive in one folder, i.e. in the Photo folder, makes it easy to back everything up.

I do regularly use adjustment layers, but I'm not a fan of smart objects.

[coops]

Here's what I do, if it's any help...

1. Scan the film at the highest opitical resolution of your scanner. In your case 2400 spi. Save the file.

2. Duplicate the scanned file. This will become your master file.

3. Make all tonal and color adjusments to the master file. Save this file under a new name.

4. When you want to print, duplicate the master file, size it as needed, sharpen as needed and then save it under a different name.

The foregoing does create additional files, but your raw (unedited) scan file is untouched and can be reused, if needed.

--P

My computer cannot handle large files. Takes forever, so I scan as you suggest and make a smaller, lower res. copy and work on that, using adjustment layers. I then apply those changes/layers to the larger image, go make some coffee while the computer chugs away but save a lot of time. Don't know if this is helpful or not.