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Thread: Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

  1. #21

    Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

    "I've never understood why anyone would take a camera (monorail) designed for one purpose (studio and other indoor work) and then try to adapt it to a use (landscape) for which it was never intended when there are plenty of cameras out there (Wisner, Wista, Technika, Canham, Tachihara, Walker, Shen Hao, et al) designed specifically for the intended use (landscape) to which the ill suited monorail camera is going to be put."

    But... not all monorails are intended to be used in the studio. I don't own a s tudio, never have and likely never will, but all three 4x5 cameras I currently o wn are monorails. Two, the Gowland and the Toho are lighter than any of the "fi eld" cameras mentioned above. In fact, the COMBINED weight of my Gowland (1 lb. 14 oz.) and Toho (2 lb. 12.5 oz.) is lighter than just about all the "field" ca meras mentioned in the quote above. Just because a camera rides on a rail does not mean it is ill suited for use in the field. Certainly cameras like the Gowl and (lightest 4x5 camera ever made) and Toho (lightest 4x5 currently available) are specifically designed to be used in the field - and it is their forte'. "IMHO you should do yourself a favor, forget about monorails for your landscape work, and get a camera designed for the use to which you plan to put your camera - i.e. a field camera for field use."

    I think the division of "monorail vs. field" is very imprecise. It makes no all owance for cameras like the Gowlands, Tohos, Arca Swiss F Line, Toyo VX125, Linh of Technikardan, etc. that are monorail cameras designed and sold for use in the field. "Studio vs. field" maybe a better delineation, but is nearly equally va gue.

    I understand Brian's point that some of the cameras the original poster asked ab out would be primarily considered "studio" cameras by most. What I object to is the generic sentiment that you should "forget about monorails for your landscap e work". Given that I am a landscape photographer who uses monorails for all of my work, I find that statement a too restrictive and perhaps misleading to anyo ne looking to purchase a "field" camera. When it comes right down to it, if I c ould own only one 4x5 camera for all of my landscape work, it would be the Toho FC-45X. It is not perfect, and it has it's limitations and design compromises ( all cameras do). It does, IMHO offer a very attractive combination of weight, s ize, movements, ease of use, min/max bellows draw, rigidity and price. It also happens to be a monorail. I've used a lot of traditional flat bed folding "fiel d" cameras, and IMHO, none come close to matching the Toho as a lightweight "fie ld" camera for hiking and backpacking.

    It may, or may not be the ideal camera for the original poster, but I do think i t is worthy of his consideration. Also, he is not the only one who will read th is thread. So, I wanted to get in my 2 cents on this whole "monorail vs. field" issue for those who may be faced with a similar decision.

    Kerry

  2. #22

    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Posts
    193

    Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

    Hi John...

    I just came back from Joshua Tree National Park.. a weekend whith Per, Hugo, Gregory, and Nicolas.. tell you this... I've seen the set up of my dream...man.. a Linhoff (Gregory)... if you want light weight ..then talk to John (a beautiful Wisner..) ...ahhhhhhhhhhh...

  3. #23

    Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

    I have owned a ton of different view cameras:

    Speed graphic 4X5, Linhof Kardan B 4X5, Sinar P 4X5 and 8X10, Deardorff 8X10, Cambo 4X5, Wisner Pocket Expedition 5X7 and now a bastardized Sinar 5X7 (a combination of a Norma 5X7 back with a Sinar f2 front).

    It is a fact that when you shoot larger film sizes = 5X7 and up the camera body itself is no longer the main weight and volume. Film holders, lenses, lightmeter(s), and tripod will account for the most weight and bulk.

    Of all the cameras that I have owned and now own the Sinar P allows for the most direct, no fumble creative approach. All movements offer quick and precise adjustments. You can fully concentrate on the subject matter (and what you see and want to communicate) instead of going through a series of movement adjustments - not only to determine the best perspective and depth of field but also to correct for camera design problems. But the Sinar P is heavy and a bit cumbersome to haul around. Therefore my preference would be a Sinar "C" = a Sinar with a P or P2 back and a simpler, leight weight front standard...but then again that is only my personal preference. Looking at the length of this tread it is obvious that there are many cameras out there that people have adapted to, swear by and prefer over other designs.

    So, unfortunately you will not know what your own preference will be until you try a camera (or several cameras) under different conditions.

  4. #24

    Join Date
    Jul 1998
    Location
    Lund, Sweden
    Posts
    2,214

    Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

    I occasionally use a Sinar Norma belonging to my lab for personal stuff. Both standards and the tripod attachment (rail clamp) will fit onto a 6" rail with the standard bellows, so it does fold down into a compact package even if it isn't as light as the Toho. Collapsed like this it fits into a small Arctic Zone cooler and is easy to carry around or fit into a larger rucksack.

    Others here have a better idea of the tradeoffs between cameras, but I can't see how the Norma would limit you for the usage you mention, and it would leave money over for more film and travel. They hold their value as well as modern cameras, so provided you don't drop it down the Grand Canyon you will be able to recoup your investment if you feel you need to change later.

  5. #25
    Moderator
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Minneapolis, Minnesota
    Posts
    1,278

    Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

    Just wanted to note that the product support for the Arcas in the USA isn't all that horrible. I broke a spirit level when my F-line Field blew over in the wind a month or so ago. I got a replacement level vial in about a week after talking to both the Chicago rep and the repair guy(who told me how to replace the level so I wouldn't have to send the standard in). There was some delay in getting the call from repair (confused by which was my home or work #), but all things considered, it was a good experience. Bob, the repair guy, said he had a pretty complete stock of parts and could turn things around quickly, so I wouldn't be too concerned about support from them. The vial cost $10, BTW.

  6. #26

    Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

    you can get front tilt with a crown graphic by attaching the camera to the tripod via the hole under the strap and then moving tripod head to get the camera upside down. i've been doing lf about a year and have resisted the tendency to go for another camera; using graphic view II and crown graphic and via searches find "new" features all the time that allow me to learn more and more without having to go for more expensive equipment so far. putting the money into lenses.

  7. #27

    Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

    You can rig up a DOF calculator for almost any view camera--all that is needed is a way to measure the change in focus position of the lens or camera back required to focus on the near and far objects that you want to have in focus. Knowing this value, a table tells you what f-stop to use. See the articles "How to select the f-stop" and "making a DOF calculator for your camera" on the large format photograph page http://www.ai.sri.com/~luong/photography/lf/. For setting the tilt or swing, I think most photographers use an iterative procedure rather than a calculator. Howard Bond gives an excellent description of how to do this: http://www.ai.sri.com/~luong/photography/lf/articles/bond-checklist.html. The point is that the existence of manufacturer supplied calculators doesn't need to be a top criteria for choosing a camera.

  8. #28

    Join Date
    Dec 1997
    Location
    Baraboo, Wisconsin
    Posts
    7,697

    Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

    Hi Kerry - You're right, I should have made it clear that there are monorails designed for field use and I didn't intend to include them in my diatribe.
    Brian Ellis
    Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you do criticize them you'll be
    a mile away and you'll have their shoes.

  9. #29

    Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

    Thanks again, everybody. As usual, your contributions have been very useful and definitely represent the wide range of experience that comes together in this forum.

    Well, I decided to get the Discovery. The combination of low price, precision, capability, and quick setup were the factors that pushed me to make the decision. If this thread hasn't been erased in a month or two I'll drop by to give an update on how it's worked out for me.

  10. #30

    Yet another"which LF should I buy" post -- but w/ redeemable qualities

    Hi Brian,

    I use a monorail in the field. A cc400. It is a real tank. The reason I bought it was price. Camera and lens were under $200. I have heard that I could get a Speed graphic for about the same price but it would have greatly limited movements. Now that I have the camera I love it. I am a very large man with very large hands and the nobs are easy to use. I have gone out with a friend using a Wisner and the controls seem absolutely tiny. I am still working on an optimal way to carry the beast. If I can all future money will be spent on a sturdy tripod and on glass.

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