Developer for Portraits

[Pawlowski6132]

Currently using TMY2 or TXP for portrait work. Developing in Xtol. Using Ilford MG FB Warmtone. No real complaints but wondering if I can gain some more tonal gradation (I don't think I'm articulating this correctly)? In other words, I'm not interested in maximizing contrast range or sharpness but, want beautiful tones.

I'm willing to try to mix my own if you have some good forumulas.

[Jay DeFehr]

510-Pyro is my favorite portrait developer, and until recently, I would have recommended it without hesitation, but...GSD-10 might be a better option for printing on VC papers. GSD-10 is a simple, glycin-only developer formulated for stand (or low agitation frequency) development of modern films, but it also works very well with standard intermittent or rotary development. Expose at box speed, or a little higher for best results. I'm afraid the only LF example I have online is not a portrait, and not my work, but that of Jim Byers. It demonstrates the sharpness, grain structure and gradation of the film/developer combination very well.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vQiBpnvmQM...p3+1200dpi.jpg

Film: Forte 200
Developer: GSD-10
Dilution: 1:30
Time: 56 minutes
Temp: 77F
Agitation: 10 seconds/ 9 minutes

GSD-10

Distilled water 750ml
sodium sulfite 50g
sodium carbonate 75g
distilled water to 1 liter

Dilute 1+4 - 1+29

[Scott Davis]

I've been very happy with Pyrocat HD. Soup at 1:1:100.

[Pawlowski6132]

I heard Pyro is very toxic/caustic to mix. True?

GSD-10, stand developer, do you know how much developer is needed per 80 sq in? I'm wondering how many 4x5 hangers I can use in my old hard rubber kodak tank. That's the method commonly employed for stand developing?? Or, usually one of the Yankee variety of tanks so I don't have to sit in the dark for an hour.

[David de Gruyl]

Jay,

How do you determine developing time on GSD-10? It seems to me that 56 minutes is a meaningless distinction from, for example, 60 minutes. (I know, it is not your work).

I just realized that I have all of the chemistry in my closet at the moment, so I might try it. It is just that film testing is so expensive and time consuming without a starting point.

[David de Gruyl]

For 4x5, I use a daylight tank (HP Combiplan) for stand developing. For 8x10, I have been using BTZS tubes, but I have been slowly transitioning to dip and dunk.

I will let Jay reveal his method.

[Jay DeFehr]

David,

Jim derived his 56 minute development time in a very practical, methodical way. He chose the 1:30 dilution for economy, and determined 9 minutes as the minimum safe agitation frequency for that film, so: 1 minute initial agitation + 6 periods of 9 minutes development + 6 10second agitation intervals = 56minutes. He previously determined his development time at 70F, but it was too long for his liking, so he increased the temperature to 77F, and knocked off one or two of the development periods, thus arriving at the above. There is more developing info at the blog:

http://gsd-10.blogspot.com/

Pawlowski,

I'm not sure of the absolute minimum requirement of GSD-stock/ 8x10, but I know 30ml is safe. While I've had very few problems with stand development, I have seen streaking with some films, as in Jim's example at the blog. Stand development is always risky, and its benefits should be weighed against these risks. For instance, Jim could see no compromise in sharpness with 9 minute development periods compared to stand development, and this low frequency agitation was enough to prevent any streaking or uneven development. I've always used GSD-10 one-shot, but it might make a very nice large tank developer, too, since glycin solutions are known to resist oxidation and have very long shelf/tank lives. Since GSD-10 contains no bromide, one could theoretically use the stock solution to replenish the working developer, but I haven't worked out a replenishment rate.

I think David is referring above to my very low budget method of developing single sheets in black plastic bags. Essentially, I put a negative in one of the black bags my film or paper are packaged in, pour in the developer, fold over the top, and float the black bag in a tray of tempered water. This method is very safe, regarding scratches, etc, and economical, as it requires a very low volume of solution, once all the air is squeezed out of the bag. I'm working on evolving this primitive method into a practical technique for general use, but it's not quite ready yet.

[Jay DeFehr]

Thanks to KOG for catching a fairly critical omission from my posted formula! It should read:

GSD-10

Distilled water 750ml
sodium sulfite 50g
sodium carbonate 75g
glycin 10g

distilled water to 1 liter

Dilute 1+4 - 1+29

[nolindan]

Developer won't give you 'more beautiful tones'. Improving the lighting will. Portraiture is 70% rapport with the subject, 29% lighting and 1% technical stuff - of which 0.01% is the choice of film developer.

Oh, I don't know. Maybe I am overstating the importance of the developer...

[Donald Miller]

Developer won't give you 'more beautiful tones'. Improving the lighting will. Portraiture is 70% rapport with the subject, 29% lighting and 1% technical stuff - of which 0.01% is the choice of film developer.

Oh, I don't know. Maybe I am overstating the importance of the developer...

I agree completely.